PL. —Dionaea muscipulaBotanical illustration — drop image
Dionaea muscipula

Venus Flytrap

SpringSummerFall
7a10bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Gallery
Background

Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula) is the sole species in its genus and native to a narrow band of coastal plain bogs in North and South Carolina. It captures insects and spiders with spring-loaded leaf traps that require two contacts with internal trigger hairs within roughly 20 seconds to close—a mechanism that filters out false triggers such as raindrops and prevents wasted energy.

Cultivation must mimic bog habitat: permanent moisture at the roots, full sun for at least 6 hours, and soil that is both acidic and nutrient-poor. Use pure sphagnum moss or a 1:1 mix of peat and silica sand. Never add fertilizer; root damage follows quickly. Use only distilled water, rainwater, or reverse-osmosis water—dissolved minerals in tap water accumulate in the root zone and are lethal over time. The plant is cold-hardy in ground in zones 7–10 but requires 3–4 months of winter dormancy at 35–50°F; skipping dormancy shortens its lifespan considerably. In colder climates, overwinter in an unheated garage or refrigerator.

Dionaea extracts contain plumbagin, a naphthoquinone that has been studied in laboratory settings for anticancer and antimicrobial activity. A commercial supplement called Carnivora derived from the plant has been marketed as an immune modulator, though controlled clinical evidence remains limited.

Care guide
SunFull sun
WaterWet
SoilAcidic peat and sand
Spacing4–6 in
Height4–12 in
Zone7a – 10b
Native RegionNC, SC
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
winter
watchMaintain dormancy at 35–50°F with reduced but not zero moisture. Outdoor plants in zones 7–10 can remain in the ground under a thin layer of pine straw over the crown.
spring
cutRemove blackened or dead leaves and exhausted traps left over from the dormant season as new growth begins to emerge.
sowRepot into fresh sphagnum moss or peat-sand mix every 2–3 years; do this in early spring before active growth resumes, gently teasing apart offsets for propagation.
cutCut flower stalks at the base unless collecting seed; flowering diverts energy from trap production and can weaken smaller plants.
summer
watchKeep the tray holding 1–2 inches of distilled or rainwater throughout the growing season; never let the root zone dry out during summer heat.
watchMonitor for grey mold on leaves and crowns during humid stretches; increase air circulation and remove affected tissue immediately.
fall
watchWatch for traps darkening and dying back naturally in early fall; reduce tray water depth as temperatures fall and the plant enters dormancy.
Common problems

Botrytis (grey mould)

Symptoms

Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.

Crown Rot

Symptoms

Lower leaves yellow and wilt; the base of the rosette turns brown and soft, sometimes with white fungal threads at the soil line. Plants collapse in wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove and destroy affected plants. Improve drainage and avoid overhead watering. Do not mulch directly against the crown. Space plants for airflow and avoid replanting in the same wet spot.

Root rot

Symptoms

Plants wilt, yellow, and stunt even in moist soil; lower stems and roots turn brown, soft, and mushy and the plant may collapse. Most common in heavy, wet, or poorly drained ground.

Treatment

Improve drainage and stop overwatering, and never plant too deep. Lift and destroy badly affected plants along with the soil around the roots. Grow in raised or free-draining beds to prevent it returning.