PL. —Lilium philadelphicumBotanical illustration — drop image

Lilium philadelphicum

Wood Lily

SpringSummer

3a–8bHardiness zone

Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks

Winter

Not in bloom

Spring

Peak bloom

Summer

In bloom

Fall

Not in bloom

Peak bloom

In bloom

Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks

Winter

Not in bloom

Spring

Peak bloom

Summer

In bloom

Fall

Not in bloom

Peak bloom

In bloom

Background

Lilium philadelphicum is a native North American perennial that grows from scaly bulbs and produces upward-facing, orange-red to scarlet flowers with purple-spotted bases on whorled-leaf stems. It grows wild in open woodlands, prairies, and meadows from the Atlantic coast to the Rockies, and is the provincial flower of Saskatchewan, where it is known as the western red lily. It attracts ruby-throated hummingbirds, swallowtail butterflies, and native bees.

Plant bulbs in well-drained, slightly acidic, sandy to loamy soil. The root zone should stay cool and moist during the growing season; a light layer of leaf mulch helps without waterlogging. Wood lily does not tolerate heavy clay or standing water and performs best when low surrounding plants shade its roots while its stem reaches full sun. Lily leaf beetles (Lilioceris lilii) and deer browsing are the most common pressures in managed gardens. The species does not transplant well once established, so site selection matters at planting.

Several Indigenous nations used the bulbs as food — roasted, boiled, or dried — and in traditional medicine to treat fevers and as a poultice for wounds and swelling.

Good companions

Wild Columbine Blazing Star Butterfly Weed Little Bluestem

Care guide

SunFull sun to part shade

WaterModerate

SoilWell-drained, slightly acidic, sandy to loamy

Spacing6–12 in

Height12–36 in

Zone3a – 8b

Native RegionAL, AR, CO, CT, DE, GA, IL, IN, IA, KY, ME, MD, MA, MI, MN, MO, NH, NJ, NM, NY, NC, ND, OH, PA, RI, SC, SD, TN, VT, VA, WV, WI

Frost hardy

Seasonal tasks

spring

watchAs shoots break ground, apply a light layer of shredded leaf mulch around the base to keep roots cool and retain soil moisture.

watchInspect stems and leaves for lily leaf beetles and their bright orange egg masses on leaf undersides. Hand-pick adults and eggs, or apply neem oil at first detection.

summer

watchDuring cool, wet spells, check for botrytis blight — gray mold on stems and foliage. Remove affected material immediately and improve air circulation.

cutLeave stems and foliage standing after flowering until they yellow and die back naturally, allowing the bulb to fully recharge for next season.

fall

sowPlant bulbs 3–4 in deep in well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Choose a permanent site; wood lily resents disturbance once roots are established.

cutCut dead stems to ground level once foliage has completely yellowed and dried.

Common problems

Lily Basal Rot

Symptoms

Bulb scales brown and soften at the base; stems yellow, wilt, and collapse at or just above soil level. Pink or white fungal growth may be visible on rotted bulb tissue when dug.

Treatment

Discard infected bulbs; do not replant lilies in the same location for at least three years. Improve soil drainage before replanting. Dust new bulbs with sulfur powder prior to planting. Avoid overwatering and soil compaction around the root zone.

Botrytis (grey mould)

Symptoms

Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.

Mosaic virus

Symptoms

Yellowing, mottled, or distorted leaves. No cure — spread by aphids.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected plants. Control aphid populations to prevent spread. Do not propagate from infected tubers.

Alternaria blight

Symptoms

Brown circular spots with yellow halos on leaves; spreads rapidly in wet weather.

Treatment

Remove affected leaves immediately. Water at the base only. A copper-based fungicide can help if caught early.