Narcissus pseudonarcissus

Daffodil

3a–8bHardiness zone
WinterSpring
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Peak bloom
Spring
Not in bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Gallery
Background

Daffodils are the backbone of the spring garden and the spring cutting garden: reliable, long-lived, deer-proof, and available in forms from the classic large yellow trumpet to white and orange split-cups, doubles and miniatures. Narcissus pseudonarcissus, the wild daffodil of Europe, is the parent of the trumpet types and naturalises in grass better than almost any of them.

Plant bulbs in autumn at three times their depth, 4 to 6 inches apart, in full sun or the light shade under deciduous trees, in soil that drains; they tolerate clay if it is not waterlogged in summer. Leave the foliage to die back on its own, about six weeks after flowering, since that is when the bulb stores next year's flower; mowing or braiding the leaves early is the usual reason a planting thins out. They multiply for years without lifting, and crowded clumps can be divided in summer once the leaves have died down.

As cut flowers they exude a sap that shortens the vase life of other stems. Condition them alone for twelve hours and they can then be mixed with anything. Cut when the bud has coloured and bent to the horizontal. Every part of the plant is poisonous, which is why deer, rabbits, voles and squirrels leave daffodils alone.

Care guide
SunFull sun to partial shade
WaterRegular during growth and bloom; dry during summer dormancy
SoilWell-draining; tolerates clay if not waterlogged in summer
Spacing4–6 inches
Height12–18 inches
Zone3a – 8b
WinterHardy bulb - leave in the ground year-round in Zone 3–8.
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
spring
cutCut when bud shows colour but has not yet opened; condition alone for 12 hours
watchAllow foliage to die back naturally - do not cut or tie until it yellows
summer
watchDivide congested clumps every 4–5 years after foliage dies back
buyOrder bulbs - about two months before planting; the best selection sells out early
plantPlant or move bulbs at 3× their own depth
Common problems

Botrytis (grey mould)

Symptoms

Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.

Narcissus Basal Rot

Symptoms

Brown rot starting at the base of the bulb, spreading upward; soft, decaying tissue and stunted or failed growth in spring. Fungal growth may appear pink or white.

Treatment

Discard infected bulbs. Plant only firm, healthy bulbs in well-draining soil. Avoid hot, wet conditions during summer dormancy and rotate planting sites.

Narcissus Yellow Stripe Virus

Symptoms

Yellow or pale streaks running lengthwise along leaves; distorted foliage and reduced flower size or vigor over successive years.

Treatment

No cure. Remove and destroy infected plants. Control aphids, which spread the virus, and buy certified virus-free bulbs.