Narcissus tazetta and its hybrids are the small, multi-headed, intensely fragrant narcissi: several flowers to a stem, 8 to 14 inches tall, with white or yellow petals and a small cup, opening late winter into spring. 'Paperwhite' is the one forced indoors; 'Geranium', 'Minnow' and 'Avalanche' are the garden forms. They bring a delicacy to spring arrangements that the big trumpets cannot, and the scent of a few stems fills a room.
They are less cold-hardy than trumpet daffodils and are at their best in zones 7 to 9, where they naturalise in grass and under trees and need no care. In zone 4 to 6 choose the hardier hybrids and plant in a sheltered spot. Set the bulbs in autumn at three times their depth, 3 to 4 inches apart, in sun or light shade and soil that drains, and leave the leaves to die back on their own.
Like all daffodils they are deer, rabbit and rodent proof, and they must be conditioned alone before they go into a mixed vase, because their sap shortens the life of other stems; after twelve hours in their own water they can be combined with anything. Cut when the first flower on the stem has opened.
Narcissus Basal Rot
Brown rot starting at the base of the bulb, spreading upward; soft, decaying tissue and stunted or failed growth in spring. Fungal growth may appear pink or white.
Discard infected bulbs. Plant only firm, healthy bulbs in well-draining soil. Avoid hot, wet conditions during summer dormancy and rotate planting sites.
Narcissus Yellow Stripe Virus
Yellow or pale streaks running lengthwise along leaves; distorted foliage and reduced flower size or vigor over successive years.
No cure. Remove and destroy infected plants. Control aphids, which spread the virus, and buy certified virus-free bulbs.
Botrytis (grey mould)
Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.
Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.