Tulips are one of the definitive spring cut flowers — the extraordinary diversity of form, from classic cup-shapes to fringed, parrot, and double types, means there is always something new to try. Plant bulbs in late autumn after the soil has cooled, at 6–8 inches deep. In Zone 6b, tulips are technically perennial but perform best when planted fresh each autumn, as the bulbs tend to split and diminish over time in our climate.
For cutting, harvest when the bud is showing full colour but is still closed, with petals just beginning to part at the tip. They continue to open indoors and the stems keep growing after cutting — account for this when arranging. Tulips are geotropic and will curve toward the light, which can be used deliberately or corrected by re-cutting straight and wrapping tightly in paper to set.
Botrytis (grey mould)
Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.
Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.
Aphids
Clusters of small soft insects on new growth and flower buds.
Knock off with a strong jet of water. Ladybirds and lacewings are natural predators. Insecticidal soap as last resort.
Tulip Fire (Botrytis tulipae)
Distorted, twisted shoots; brown spots and scorched-looking patches on leaves and petals; gray fuzzy mold in damp conditions.
Remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Avoid planting tulips in the same spot for several years. Space bulbs for airflow and avoid overhead watering.
Tulip Bulb Rot
Soft, mushy bulbs with brown or blue-gray mold; failure to sprout or weak stunted shoots in spring.
Plant only firm, healthy bulbs in well-draining soil. Avoid waterlogged sites. Discard any bulbs showing soft spots before planting.