PL. —Tulipa acuminataBotanical illustration — drop image
Tulipa acuminata

Fire Flame Tulip

Spring
3a8bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
In bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Tulipa acuminata, the fire flame or horned tulip, is one of the most distinctive tulips grown, with narrow, sinuous petals that twist and taper to fine points, streaked red and yellow in a way that reads more like a cluster of flames than a classic tulip cup. It has been in cultivation since at least 1813 and, unlike most named species tulips, has never been found growing wild — its true origin is unknown, and it is thought to be a very old garden selection, likely Ottoman Turkish, that predates modern records. Because it is a true species rather than a modern hybrid, it is a favorite for cottage, heirloom, and cutting gardens that want something a hybrid Darwin or parrot tulip can't provide.

Culture is the same as any hardy tulip: plant bulbs in late fall once the soil has cooled, in full sun and sharply drained soil, and let the foliage die back completely after bloom before removing it. Unlike many modern hybrids bred to be replaced yearly, species tulips like this one tend to persist and even naturalize modestly over years in a well-drained bed, rather than declining after a single season — division of offset bulbs every few years keeps a planting going indefinitely.

Care guide
SunFull sun
WaterModerate; resents waterlogged soil especially in summer dormancy
SoilWell-draining, average to rich; bulbs rot in wet heavy clay
Spacing4–6 in
Height12–20 in
Zone3a – 8b
WinterHardy bulb — leave in ground; species tulips like this one naturalize and persist far better than modern hybrids.
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
spring
cutCut when petals are showing full color but the flower is still tightly twisted, for the longest vase life
cutRemove spent flower heads but leave all foliage standing
summer
sowDivide and replant congested offset bulbs every 3–4 years once foliage has died back, to keep the planting vigorous
watchAllow foliage to yellow and die back naturally — 6–8 weeks after bloom — before cutting it away
fall
sowPlant bulbs in late autumn after soil cools, 6–8 inches deep
Common problems

Botrytis (grey mould)

Symptoms

Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.

Tulip Fire (Botrytis tulipae)

Symptoms

Distorted, twisted shoots; brown spots and scorched-looking patches on leaves and petals; gray fuzzy mold in damp conditions.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected plants immediately. Avoid planting tulips in the same spot for several years. Space bulbs for airflow and avoid overhead watering.

Tulip Bulb Rot

Symptoms

Soft, mushy bulbs with brown or blue-gray mold; failure to sprout or weak stunted shoots in spring.

Treatment

Plant only firm, healthy bulbs in well-draining soil. Avoid waterlogged sites. Discard any bulbs showing soft spots before planting.

Pests

Aphids

Aphididae
Symptoms

Clusters of small soft insects on new growth and flower buds.

Treatment

Knock off with a strong jet of water. Ladybirds and lacewings are natural predators. Insecticidal soap as last resort.