Thuja occidentalis 'Danica'

Danica Arborvitae

3a–7bHardiness zone
SpringSummerFallWinter
Background

Danica arborvitae is a dwarf, globe-shaped cultivar of Thuja occidentalis selected in Denmark. It holds a tight, symmetrical mound naturally without shearing, making it one of the most low-maintenance evergreen cultivars available for small-scale plantings. Mature size is typically 2–3 ft tall and wide after 10 years, with older specimens occasionally reaching 4 ft.

It performs best in full sun with well-drained, consistently moist soil and good air circulation. Foliage is dense, flat-sprayed, and dark green, bronzing slightly in winter before recovering in spring. Plants tolerate cold to zone 3a and are largely problem-free when sited correctly; standing water around the roots is the primary cause of decline. Mulching the root zone moderates soil temperature, retains moisture, and reduces weed competition.

The common name arborvitae - Latin for "tree of life" - traces to sixteenth-century French accounts of Indigenous peoples of eastern North America using Thuja occidentalis foliage to treat scurvy; the leaves contain measurable vitamin C, and this use predated any chemical understanding of the nutrient.

In these starter beds
Care guide
SunFull sun
WaterModerate
SoilFertile loam, moist but well-drained
Spacing2–3 ft
Height1.5–2 ft
Zone3a – 7b
Native Region
Native range, from wild records. Select a state for its native plants.

Ecoregions:Northern ForestsEastern Temperate ForestsGreat Plains

Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
spring
cutRemove dead or brown branch tips caused by winter desiccation with clean shears before new growth begins in spring.
watchCheck branch tips for kabatina twig blight - brown, dead shoot tips on the previous season's growth; prune out affected stems with sterilized pruners and dispose of all debris off-site.
watchLook for bagworm cases hanging from branch tips in late spring; remove and destroy cases by hand before eggs hatch in early summer.
sowPlant container-grown specimens in early spring once soil is workable, setting the rootball flush with or just above surrounding grade to prevent crown rot.
summer
watchInspect inner foliage in midsummer for spider mite stippling and fine webbing; dislodge mites with a firm water spray or apply horticultural oil in the evening during dry spells.
watchDuring prolonged summer drought, water deeply once a week at the root zone; moisture stress predisposes plants to spider mites and root rot pathogens.
fall
sowPlant or transplant in early fall at least six weeks before the ground freezes; water thoroughly at planting and apply 2–3 inches of mulch over the root zone, keeping mulch clear of the trunk.
Common problems

Kabatina Twig Blight

Symptoms

Tips of one-year-old shoots turn yellow then straw-brown, most visibly from late winter through early spring. Tiny black pycnidia appear at the boundary of dead and living tissue. Unlike Phomopsis blight, which kills current-season shoots in summer, Kabatina affects previous-year wood and symptoms are most prominent at or before bud break.

Treatment

Prune affected shoots 2–3 inches below visible symptoms during dry weather; disinfect cutting tools between each cut with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Avoid overhead irrigation. Apply a preventive copper-based or thiophanate-methyl fungicide in early fall before temperatures drop. Thin dense interior foliage to improve air circulation.

Phytophthora Root Rot

Symptoms

Wilting despite moist soil, yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and dark, decayed roots and crown tissue. Vines may collapse during hot weather.

Treatment

Plant in well-draining soil and avoid waterlogging. Remove and destroy affected vines. Improve drainage with raised beds or amended soil and avoid overwatering.

Armillaria Root Rot

Symptoms

Thinning, yellowing canopy with progressive dieback; white, fan-shaped mycelial mats visible beneath bark at or just below the soil line; honey-colored mushroom clusters appearing at the trunk base or on surface roots in autumn.

Treatment

No chemical cure exists. Improve drainage and avoid any injury to roots or trunk. Remove severely infected trees along with as much root material as possible. Do not replant susceptible species in the same spot.