PL. —Mahonia aquifoliumBotanical illustration — drop image
Mahonia aquifolium

Oregon Grape

Spring
5a9bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
In bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium) is a native evergreen shrub of the Pacific Northwest with bold pinnate leaves that resemble holly, dense clusters of yellow flowers in early spring, and dark blue-black berries in late summer. Foliage often turns bronze or burgundy in cold weather, then returns to green in spring. It provides year-round structure, early pollinator forage, and edible fruit in a single plant.

In the wild it grows as a forest understory shrub, tolerating both shade and summer drought. In the garden it performs similarly: once established it is highly drought-tolerant and spreads slowly by rhizomes to form a low colony. This spreading habit works well in naturalistic or slope plantings but may need periodic edge control in formal beds. Slightly acidic to neutral soil (pH 5.5–7.0) suits it best; a layer of organic mulch at planting helps retain moisture through the establishment period.

Roots and bark contain berberine, an alkaloid with documented antimicrobial properties in laboratory research. Indigenous peoples of the Pacific Northwest prepared bark decoctions as a digestive bitter and used the plant topically for skin infections and inflammation. The tart berries are high in vitamin C and are used for jelly, syrup, and wine.

Care guide
SunPart shade to full shade
WaterLow
SoilWell-drained, acidic
Spacing4–6 ft
Height3–10 ft
Zone5a – 9b
Native RegionCA, ID, MT, NV, OR, WA
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
winter
watchBronze or purple winter leaf color is a normal cold-stress response; inspect for true cane dieback only in zone 5 after severe freezes.
spring
watchAs new growth emerges, inspect leaves and stems for orange-yellow pustules indicating rust; remove and destroy affected material immediately.
cutAfter the yellow flower clusters fade, prune out winter-damaged or crossing stems at the base to improve airflow and shape.
sowPlant container-grown shrubs in early spring, spacing 3–5 ft apart in a site with well-drained soil and part shade.
summer
watchIn warm, humid weather, check foliage for white powdery coating; thin crowded stems and apply sulfur spray if the infection spreads.
cutHarvest dark blue-black berry clusters when fully ripe and slightly yielding to pressure; process promptly into jelly, syrup, or juice.
fall
cutCut the oldest and tallest canes to the ground in early fall to encourage compact new growth the following season.
cutApply 2–3 in of organic mulch around the root zone before hard frost, keeping mulch a few inches away from the stems.
Common problems

Powdery mildew

Symptoms

White or grey powdery coating on leaves — usually starting on older growth in humid conditions or when nights cool.

Treatment

Improve air circulation by thinning plants. Apply neem oil or potassium bicarbonate spray at first sign. Avoid overhead watering.

Rust

Symptoms

Orange to brown raised pustules on the undersides of leaves, with yellow spotting on the upper surface. Heavy infections cause leaves to yellow and drop.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected leaves. Avoid overhead watering and improve air circulation. Apply a sulfur or copper-based fungicide if it spreads. Clear plant debris in fall.

Mahonia Rust

Symptoms

Orange-yellow, cup-shaped aeciospore pustules on the undersides of leaves and on young stems in spring; infected tissue may swell slightly and distort.

Treatment

Remove and destroy affected foliage and stems promptly. Avoid siting plants near cereal grain crops, as Mahonia is the alternate host for Puccinia graminis (wheat stem rust). Apply a registered copper or sulfur fungicide during bud break if rust has been a recurring problem.