PL. —Prunus angustifoliaBotanical illustration — drop image
Prunus angustifolia

Chickasaw Plum

SpringSummerFall
5a9bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Peak bloom
Spring
Not in bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Chickasaw plum is a small native tree or large suckering shrub native to the south-central and southeastern United States. It produces tart, half-inch red or yellow plums in midsummer and functions simultaneously as a food plant, early-season pollinator resource, and wildlife habitat anchor across its range.

The plant spreads by root suckers, forming dense thickets that shelter and feed deer, songbirds, foxes, and wild turkey. In cultivated settings, regular sucker removal is needed to contain spread. It thrives in sandy, well-drained soils with a pH of 5.5–7.0, tolerates drought and lean, infertile conditions once established, and is cold-hardy to zone 5a. White flowers appear before the leaves in early spring, providing forage for native bees. Full sun produces the heaviest fruit load.

The fruit is edible fresh and widely used for jams, jellies, preserves, and fruit wine. Indigenous peoples of the Southeast harvested it as a staple summer fruit, and it remains a traditional food plant in rural areas of the South and Great Plains.

Care guide
SunFull sun to part shade
WaterLow
SoilSandy, well-drained
Spacing15–20 ft
Height6–25 ft
Zone5a – 9b
Native RegionAL, AR, FL, GA, KS, KY, LA, MS, MO, NM, NC, OK, SC, TN, TX, VA
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
winter
cutPrune out dead, crossing, or diseased branches in late winter before growth resumes.
spring
watchInspect emerging leaves for bacterial spot — small, angular dark lesions that enlarge and may drop out, leaving a shot-hole appearance.
cutRemove root suckers at soil level to maintain a single-stemmed form; leave them in place if building a naturalized thicket.
sowPlant bare-root or container stock in early spring before bud break, in a sunny, well-drained site.
summer
watchCheck branches for black knot galls — hard, irregular black swellings on stems. Cut affected wood 4 inches below any visible gall margin and destroy the prunings.
cutHarvest plums when fully colored (red or yellow) and slightly soft, typically mid-July through August.
watchMonitor for brown rot during wet weather — gray-tan spore masses on softening fruit. Remove and discard mummified fruit from the tree and ground promptly.
fall
cutCollect and dispose of fallen fruit and leaf litter to reduce overwintering disease inoculum.
Common problems

Brown Rot

Symptoms

Blossoms turn brown and cling to the twig rather than dropping (blossom blight). Developing or ripe fruit shows soft, rapidly expanding brown lesions covered in distinctive ash-gray powdery spore tufts. Infected fruit shrivels into hard mummies that persist on branches through winter.

Treatment

Remove and destroy mummified fruit from branches and the ground at pruning time. Apply sulfur or a registered fungicide at full bloom and again 2–3 weeks before harvest during wet seasons. Thin fruit to reduce canopy density and direct fruit-to-fruit contact, which speeds spread.

Black Knot

Symptoms

Hard, elongated galls form on stems and branches, starting olive-green and soft before turning black, corky, and woody. Galls girdle stems, killing all growth beyond the infection point. Severely infected plants develop multiple swollen knobs throughout the canopy.

Treatment

Prune infected wood at least 8 inches below any visible gall during dormancy; sterilize pruning tools between each cut with 70% isopropyl alcohol or 10% bleach solution. Remove and destroy all pruned material — do not compost. In orchards or high-pressure sites, apply a copper-based or lime-sulfur fungicide at bud swell and again 10–14 days later. Remove nearby wild Prunus hosts, which serve as inoculum reservoirs.

Bacterial Spot

Symptoms

Small water-soaked angular lesions on leaves that turn dark brown and drop out, leaving ragged shot-holes. Sunken, water-soaked dark spots on fruit skin that can crack and invite secondary rots. Twig cankers with gummy amber exudate on young wood.

Treatment

Apply copper-based bactericide beginning at petal fall and repeat on a 10–14 day schedule through early summer. Avoid overhead irrigation. Prune for open canopy airflow. Remove and destroy infected shoots during dormant pruning. Elberta has moderate susceptibility; consider planting resistant cultivars in high-pressure sites.

Shot Hole Disease

Symptoms

Small reddish-purple spots on leaves that dry out and drop, leaving ragged holes across the leaf surface. Severe infections cause early defoliation. Dark sunken lesions may appear on young stems.

Treatment

Remove and dispose of infected leaves and stems. Avoid overhead irrigation and wetting foliage. Apply a copper-based fungicide in fall just before seasonal rains begin; repeat in early spring if the previous season was severe. Ensure good air circulation through selective pruning.

Powdery mildew

Symptoms

White or grey powdery coating on leaves — usually starting on older growth in humid conditions or when nights cool.

Treatment

Improve air circulation by thinning plants. Apply neem oil or potassium bicarbonate spray at first sign. Avoid overhead watering.

Rust

Symptoms

Orange to brown raised pustules on the undersides of leaves, with yellow spotting on the upper surface. Heavy infections cause leaves to yellow and drop.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected leaves. Avoid overhead watering and improve air circulation. Apply a sulfur or copper-based fungicide if it spreads. Clear plant debris in fall.