PL. —Thuja occidentalisBotanical illustration — drop image
Thuja occidentalis

American Arborvitae

SpringSummerFallWinter
2a7bHardiness zone
Background

Thuja occidentalis is a native North American conifer, also called northern white-cedar, widely planted for dense year-round privacy screens, hedges, and windbreaks. It holds flattened, scale-like, aromatic foliage through severe winters and ranks among the most cold-tolerant evergreen trees in cultivation. Dozens of named cultivars range from narrow columnar forms under 15 feet to broad pyramidal trees exceeding 60 feet.

In the wild it grows in swamps, rocky limestone ridges, and stream banks across northeastern North America, typically on neutral to alkaline soils. In the garden it tolerates clay, periodic wet feet, and alkaline conditions better than most conifers. Deer browse arborvitae heavily in winter and can strip specimens to bare wood where pressure is high. The common name 'tree of life' traces to French explorer Jacques Cartier, whose crew reportedly used the foliage to treat scurvy in the winter of 1535.

Indigenous peoples of northeastern North America used arborvitae foliage and inner bark to treat scurvy, fevers, and rheumatism; the foliage is high in vitamin C. The essential oil contains thujone, which is toxic in quantity, making internal use inadvisable. Topical preparations from leaf extracts appear in traditional practice for warts and skin conditions.

Care guide
SunFull sun to part shade
WaterModerate to wet
SoilMoist, adaptable
Spacing3–10 ft
Height20–40 ft
Zone2a – 7b
Native RegionCT, IL, IN, KY, ME, MD, MA, MI, MN, NH, NY, NC, OH, PA, TN, VT, VA, WV, WI
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
winter
watchInspect foliage in late winter for winter burn: bronzing or browning on windward sides caused by desiccating winds when roots are frozen. Install burlap screens on exposed sides before the following winter to reduce recurrence.
spring
cutShear hedges once in late spring after the first flush of new growth has hardened off; avoid cutting back into bare old wood, which will not regenerate.
sowTransplant balled-and-burlapped or container-grown trees in early spring before new growth begins; water in thoroughly and apply 2–3 inches of mulch, keeping it clear of the trunk.
summer
watchInspect foliage in early summer for bagworm cases; hand-pick small infestations or apply Bt while larvae are still young and actively feeding.
watchWater established trees deeply during extended dry spells; drought stress weakens trees and increases susceptibility to canker diseases and spider mites.
fall
watchCheck shoot tips in fall for gray-brown dieback progressing inward — a sign of Kabatina or Phomopsis twig blight. Prune affected shoots to healthy wood and dispose of all debris.
Common problems

Kabatina Twig Blight

Symptoms

Tips of one-year-old shoots turn yellow then straw-brown, most visibly from late winter through early spring. Tiny black pycnidia appear at the boundary of dead and living tissue. Unlike Phomopsis blight, which kills current-season shoots in summer, Kabatina affects previous-year wood and symptoms are most prominent at or before bud break.

Treatment

Prune affected shoots 2–3 inches below visible symptoms during dry weather; disinfect cutting tools between each cut with 70% isopropyl alcohol. Avoid overhead irrigation. Apply a preventive copper-based or thiophanate-methyl fungicide in early fall before temperatures drop. Thin dense interior foliage to improve air circulation.

Phomopsis Blight

Symptoms

Irregular brown lesions on leaves, stems, and fruit. Stem lesions can girdle the plant, causing wilting above the infection point. Fruit develops sunken, dark, water-soaked spots that expand and rot rapidly in warm, wet conditions. Small black fruiting bodies may be visible inside older lesions.

Treatment

Remove and destroy all infected tissue. Avoid overhead irrigation and improve air circulation through adequate spacing. Apply copper-based fungicide at first symptoms and repeat every 7–10 days during wet weather. Rotate out of the nightshade family for at least 3 years and start with certified disease-free transplants.

Armillaria Root Rot

Symptoms

Thinning, yellowing canopy with progressive dieback; white, fan-shaped mycelial mats visible beneath bark at or just below the soil line; honey-colored mushroom clusters appearing at the trunk base or on surface roots in autumn.

Treatment

No chemical cure exists. Improve drainage and avoid any injury to roots or trunk. Remove severely infected trees along with as much root material as possible. Do not replant susceptible species in the same spot.

Botryosphaeria Canker

Symptoms

Dark, sunken cankers on stems and major branches, most often occurring after drought stress or mechanical wounding. Bark peeled back from affected areas reveals brown, discolored wood beneath. Branch tips wilt and die back progressively inward.

Treatment

Prune infected branches at least 6 inches below the visible canker margin using sterilized tools, and dispose of all cuttings away from the garden. Reduce plant stress by maintaining consistent irrigation during dry periods and avoiding bark wounds during maintenance. No curative fungicide is available; keeping plants vigorous is the primary preventive strategy.

Root rot

Symptoms

Plants wilt, yellow, and stunt even in moist soil; lower stems and roots turn brown, soft, and mushy and the plant may collapse. Most common in heavy, wet, or poorly drained ground.

Treatment

Improve drainage and stop overwatering, and never plant too deep. Lift and destroy badly affected plants along with the soil around the roots. Grow in raised or free-draining beds to prevent it returning.