Batten Blooms
PL. —Gloriosa superbaBotanical illustration — drop image
Gloriosa superba

Gloriosa Lily

SummerFall
9a–11bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
In bloom
Summer
Peak bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Gloriosa superba, the flame lily or gloriosa lily, is a tropical tuberous vine from Africa and Asia grown for its extraordinary reflexed flowers — crimson-and-yellow petals swept backward like flames, carried on wiry stems that climb by tendrils at the leaf tips rather than by twining. Given a trellis, netting, or shrub to scramble through, a single brittle L-shaped tuber can cover several feet of support in a season.

Every part of the plant is highly toxic if ingested — it contains colchicine, the same alkaloid that makes autumn crocus dangerous, and the tuber in particular has been mistaken for a yam with fatal results. Handle tubers with gloves, and keep the plant well away from children, pets, and edible plantings. That same toxicity is put to legitimate use commercially: Gloriosa superba tubers are a major pharmaceutical source of colchicine, used to treat gout and familial Mediterranean fever. Outside its hardiness range, grow it exactly like a dahlia — plant the tuber horizontally after the soil has warmed, and lift it before the ground freezes.

Good companions
PassionflowerDahliaZinniaCosmos
Care guide
SunFull sun to part shade
WaterModerate; regular water through active growth, kept dry while dormant
SoilRich, well-draining
Spacing12–18 inches
Height6–8 feet, climbing
Zone9a – 11b
WinterLift tubers after first frost; cure briefly and store dry in barely-damp vermiculite or perlite at 50–60°F over winter.
Seasonal tasks
spring
watchSet a trellis, netting, or obelisk in place at planting; the vine climbs by tendrils at the leaf tips and needs support to grab onto from the start.
sowPlant tubers horizontally, 2–3 inches deep, after all danger of frost has passed and soil has warmed. Handle tubers with gloves — all parts are toxic.
summer
watchWater regularly through active growth; keep the crown from sitting in standing water.
watchCheck new growth for aphids and spider mites, which favor the soft summer foliage.
fall
watchWatch the forecast — foliage collapses at first frost and signals it's time to lift.
cutLift tubers after first frost, handling with gloves; cure briefly and store dry, packed in barely-damp vermiculite or perlite, at 50–60°F over winter.
Common problems

Root rot

Symptoms

Plants wilt, yellow, and stunt even in moist soil; lower stems and roots turn brown, soft, and mushy and the plant may collapse. Most common in heavy, wet, or poorly drained ground.

Treatment

Improve drainage and stop overwatering, and never plant too deep. Lift and destroy badly affected plants along with the soil around the roots. Grow in raised or free-draining beds to prevent it returning.

Botrytis (grey mould)

Symptoms

Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.

Pests

Aphids

Aphididae →
Symptoms

Clusters of small soft insects on new growth and flower buds.

Treatment

Knock off with a strong jet of water. Ladybirds and lacewings are natural predators. Insecticidal soap as last resort.

Spider Mites

Tetranychus urticae →
Symptoms

Fine stippling or bronzing on leaves, faint webbing on undersides, foliage drying out during hot, dry weather.

Treatment

Spray foliage with a strong jet of water to dislodge mites. Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil to leaf undersides; repeat every 5–7 days as needed.