PL. —Rosa caninaBotanical illustration — drop image
Rosa canina

Dog Rose

SpringSummerFall
3a7bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Rosa canina is a thorny, arching wild shrub native to Europe, northwest Africa, and western Asia. It produces pale pink to white flowers in late spring, followed by oval red hips that deepen to scarlet through fall and persist into winter. Its value in the landscape is threefold: wildlife habitat, foraging source, and the primary rootstock onto which the majority of the world's grafted garden roses are budded.

It naturalizes readily in hedgerows, woodland edges, and rough ground and tolerates poor, dry soils that defeat most ornamental shrubs. Stems are heavily hooked and will scramble over fences or neighboring plants if not periodically cut back. A soil pH of 6.0–6.5 suits it well, though it adapts to a wide range. Mulch around the base aids establishment; after that, little intervention is needed. Cold-hardy to zone 3a with no special winter protection required. Suckers may emerge from the root zone and should be removed if a tidy outline is wanted.

Rose hips are among the richest plant sources of vitamin C and have been used in European herbal medicine for centuries for colds, urinary tract complaints, and joint inflammation. Both hips and petals are edible; hips are processed into tea, syrup, jam, and wine. Harvest hips after the first light frost, when sugars have increased and the skins soften slightly.

Growing roses? Read the Rose Care Calendar — pruning by class, feeding, pests, climbers, and growing for hips, timed to your frost dates.
Care guide
SunFull sun to part shade
WaterLow; drought tolerant once established
SoilWell-drained; tolerates poor soil
Spacing5–8 ft
Height8–10 ft
Zone3a – 7b
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
spring
cutPrune in late winter while dormant — remove dead and crossing canes; species roses need only light shaping
watchSpray roses preventively against yellow spot (rose rust) in preparation — a mix of copper fungicide, milk and water with a little dish soap, plus a garlic spray — before the spots can take hold
summer
watchStop deadheading in mid-to-late summer so spent flowers can set hips
watchCheck leaf undersides weekly for yellow spot (rose rust) from late spring into early summer — once roses get the spot there's no cure, so remove and destroy infected leaves immediately
fall
cutHarvest hips after the first light frost, once fully coloured and slightly softened
Common problems

Powdery mildew

Symptoms

White or grey powdery coating on leaves — usually starting on older growth in humid conditions or when nights cool.

Treatment

Improve air circulation by thinning plants. Apply neem oil or potassium bicarbonate spray at first sign. Avoid overhead watering.

Botrytis (grey mould)

Symptoms

Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.

Yellow spot (rose rust)

Yellow spot (rose rust)

Symptoms

Bright yellow spots on the upper surface of leaves, with orange-yellow powdery pustules on the underside. Leaves may drop prematurely. Worst in cool, wet springs.

Treatment

Remove and bin all affected leaves — do not compost. Apply a systemic fungicide (myclobutanil or trifloxystrobin) at first sign and repeat every 10–14 days. Spray preventively from early spring before infection takes hold. Improve air circulation by pruning to an open centre.

Pests

Aphids

Aphididae
Symptoms

Clusters of small soft insects on new growth and flower buds.

Treatment

Knock off with a strong jet of water. Ladybirds and lacewings are natural predators. Insecticidal soap as last resort.

From the field journal