PL. —Lavandula x intermediaBotanical illustration — drop image
Lavandula x intermedia

Lavandin

SpringSummerFall
5a9bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
In bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Lavandin (Lavandula × intermedia) is a sterile hybrid of true lavender (L. angustifolia) and spike lavender (L. latifolia). It grows larger and more vigorously than either parent, producing long stems with a high essential oil yield, and it supplies the bulk of lavender oil used in commercial perfumery, soaps, and cleaning products worldwide. In the garden it delivers bold midsummer color, strong fragrance, and reliable drought tolerance once established.

Lavandin thrives in lean, very well-drained soil and full sun. Wet roots and heavy clay cause rapid decline; raised beds or sloped ground improve drainage in humid climates. Because it is sterile it does not set viable seed and must be propagated by cuttings. Hard pruning each spring—cutting back one-third to one-half into green wood but never into old woody stems—maintains compact form and extends the productive life of the plant considerably. Mulch should be kept away from the crown to prevent moisture buildup.

The essential oil contains substantially more camphor than L. angustifolia, giving it a sharper, more herbaceous note that drives its dominance in industrial fragrance and cleaning applications. Dried flowers and fresh stems are used in culinary blends including herbes de Provence; the camphor intensity means smaller quantities are needed than with true lavender. Aromatherapy applications overlap with true lavender—relaxation, sleep support, and topical antiseptic use—though the higher camphor content makes undiluted skin application less advisable.

Growing lavender? Read the Lavender Growing Guide — which species suits your zone, drainage, pruning, and harvesting for drying, timed to your frost dates.
Keep apart
Care guide
SunFull sun
WaterLow
SoilWell-drained, lean, alkaline to neutral
Spacing24–36 in
Height24–36 in
Zone5a – 9b
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
spring
watchCheck drainage around plant crowns after spring rains; standing water at the base encourages root rot and botrytis.
cutPrune plants back by one-third to one-half, cutting into green wood above the woody base just as new growth begins to show.
sowTake 3–4 in softwood cuttings from non-flowering shoots and root in gritty, well-drained propagation mix.
summer
cutHarvest stems for drying when the lower one-third of florets have opened; cut in the morning after dew dries for best oil retention.
watchMonitor for shab disease: stems that wilt and die back from the tip with gray-brown discoloration. Remove and destroy affected wood immediately and improve air circulation around plants.
fall
cutLightly trim spent stems after harvest to neaten plants; avoid hard fall pruning, which reduces cold hardiness going into winter.
Common problems

Lavender Shab Disease

Symptoms

Shoots wilt and die back individually while the rest of the plant looks healthy. Small dark fungal bodies may appear on infected stems, and dieback spreads over the season.

Treatment

Prune out and destroy affected stems well below the wilted section, cleaning tools between cuts. Remove severely infected plants. Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and plant in well-draining soil to limit spread.

Root rot

Symptoms

Plants wilt, yellow, and stunt even in moist soil; lower stems and roots turn brown, soft, and mushy and the plant may collapse. Most common in heavy, wet, or poorly drained ground.

Treatment

Improve drainage and stop overwatering, and never plant too deep. Lift and destroy badly affected plants along with the soil around the roots. Grow in raised or free-draining beds to prevent it returning.

Botrytis (grey mould)

Symptoms

Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.