Lavandin (Lavandula × intermedia) is a sterile hybrid of true lavender (L. angustifolia) and spike lavender (L. latifolia). It grows larger and more vigorously than either parent, producing long stems with a high essential oil yield, and it supplies the bulk of lavender oil used in commercial perfumery, soaps, and cleaning products worldwide. In the garden it delivers bold midsummer color, strong fragrance, and reliable drought tolerance once established.
Lavandin thrives in lean, very well-drained soil and full sun. Wet roots and heavy clay cause rapid decline; raised beds or sloped ground improve drainage in humid climates. Because it is sterile it does not set viable seed and must be propagated by cuttings. Hard pruning each spring-cutting back one-third to one-half into green wood but never into old woody stems-maintains compact form and extends the productive life of the plant considerably. Mulch should be kept away from the crown to prevent moisture buildup.
The essential oil contains substantially more camphor than L. angustifolia, giving it a sharper, more herbaceous note that drives its dominance in industrial fragrance and cleaning applications. Dried flowers and fresh stems are used in culinary blends including herbes de Provence; the camphor intensity means smaller quantities are needed than with true lavender. Aromatherapy applications overlap with true lavender-relaxation, sleep support, and topical antiseptic use-though the higher camphor content makes undiluted skin application less advisable.
Growing lavender? Read the Lavender Growing Guide - which species suits your zone, drainage, pruning, and harvesting for drying, timed to your frost dates.These dates are for Zone 6b. Enter your ZIP to time every job to your own frost dates.
- overwinter · Oct 23 - Nov 20Mulch marginal plants for winter: In zones at the cold edge of a species' range, leave the season's growth in place (don't cut back) and mulch lightly around - not over - the crown after the ground begins to cool.
- cut · Any time in fallLightly trim spent stems after harvest to neaten plants; avoid hard fall pruning, which reduces cold hardiness going into winter.
- buy · Feb 13 - Feb 27Buy plants - about two months before planting out
- cut · Mar 20 - Apr 24First light shear: On established plants, shear off any winter-damaged tips and shape lightly just as new growth resumes - still cutting into green growth only, never into bare woody stems that won't regenerate.
- sow · Apr 24Take 3–4 in softwood cuttings from non-flowering shoots and root in gritty, well-drained propagation mix.
- plant · Apr 24 - May 22Plant into sharp drainage: Set out nursery plants or rooted cuttings once the soil has warmed and the last frost has passed.
- plant · Apr 24 - Jun 19Take softwood cuttings: Take 3–4 in non-flowering shoot tips and root them in gritty, well-drained propagation mix.
- watch · May 1 - Jun 19Watch for root and crown rot: Spring rains are when lavender is most at risk.
- cut · May 15 - Jul 24Harvest for drying: Cut stems when about a third of the florets on each spike have opened - this is the point of peak oil concentration.
- watch · Any time in springCheck drainage around plant crowns after spring rains; standing water at the base encourages root rot and botrytis.
- cut · Jul 3 - Jul 31Shear after the main flush: Once flowering finishes, shear the whole plant back by about a third into green growth - never into old bare wood.
- watch · Jul 24 - Sep 4Watch for lavender shab and grey mould: Humid late-summer weather is prime season for lavender shab (stems wilting and dying back from the tip) and botrytis grey mould.
- cut · Any time in summerHarvest stems for drying when the lower one-third of florets have opened; cut in the morning after dew dries for best oil retention.
- watch · Any time in summerMonitor for shab disease: stems that wilt and die back from the tip with gray-brown discoloration. Remove and destroy affected wood immediately and improve air circulation around plants.
- watch · Sep 18 - Oct 2Stop pruning before frost: Make any last light tidy at least a month before your first frost.
Problems & troubleshooting
Common problems
Lavender Shab Disease
Shoots wilt and die back individually while the rest of the plant looks healthy. Small dark fungal bodies may appear on infected stems, and dieback spreads over the season.
Prune out and destroy affected stems well below the wilted section, cleaning tools between cuts. Remove severely infected plants. Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and plant in well-draining soil to limit spread.
Root rot
Plants wilt, yellow, and stunt even in moist soil; lower stems and roots turn brown, soft, and mushy and the plant may collapse. Most common in heavy, wet, or poorly drained ground.
Improve drainage and stop overwatering, and never plant too deep. Lift and destroy badly affected plants along with the soil around the roots. Grow in raised or free-draining beds to prevent it returning.
Botrytis (grey mould)
Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.
Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.