PL. —Camassia leichtliniiBotanical illustration — drop image
Camassia leichtlinii

Great Camas

Spring
4a9bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Camassia leichtlinii, great camas, is the tallest and showiest of the Pacific Northwest camas species, native to moist meadows, prairies, and streambanks from California through Oregon and Washington. Sturdy spikes of star-shaped flowers open from the bottom up over several weeks in mid-to-late spring, reaching well above the grassy foliage — typically taller and more floriferous per stem than common camas (Camassia quamash), which it often grows alongside in the wild and blooms slightly after. The species includes two well-known garden selections: 'Caerulea', with rich blue-violet flowers, and 'Alba', a creamy white form, both sold widely as bulbs.

It shares common camas's tolerance for heavy, seasonally wet clay soil that would rot most other bulbs, needing consistent moisture from fall through spring and a dry summer dormancy once foliage yellows. Plant corms in fall in full sun to light shade, in drifts for the best naturalistic effect — it self-seeds and multiplies by offset corms over time, gradually filling a rain garden or meadow planting. As with all camas, positively identify corms before any thought of harvesting them for food: death camas (Anticlea elegans) grows in the same habitat, produces similar-looking foliage, and is toxic.

Care guide
SunFull sun to part shade
WaterRegular
SoilMoist, well-drained, loamy
Spacing4–6 in
Height24–40 in
Zone4a – 9b
Native RegionCA, OR, WA
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
spring
watchWatch for foliage emerging in late winter or early spring; keep soil consistently moist and avoid compacting the ground near emerging shoots
watchInspect corms in poorly drained spots for bacterial soft rot; lift and discard any corms that are soft, discolored, or foul-smelling
summer
cutAllow foliage to yellow and wither completely before cutting it back; removing green leaves prematurely depletes corm energy and reduces the following year's display
watchLeave seed heads intact after flowering if you want the colony to self-seed; seedlings take 3–5 years to reach blooming size
sowDivide overcrowded clumps every 3–5 years in late summer or early fall; lift corms carefully, separate offsets, and replant immediately at the same depth
fall
sowPlant corms 3–4 in deep and 4–6 in apart in early to mid-fall before the ground freezes; plant in drifts of 10 or more for naturalistic effect
Common problems

Bacterial Soft Rot

Symptoms

Rhizomes turn mushy and foul-smelling; foliage yellows and pulls away easily at the base. Often follows borer damage or overly wet soil.

Treatment

Cut away all soft tissue back to firm rhizome, let it dry, and dust the cut with sulfur. Improve drainage and avoid burying rhizomes. Destroy badly infected plants.

Crown Rot

Symptoms

Lower leaves yellow and wilt; the base of the rosette turns brown and soft, sometimes with white fungal threads at the soil line. Plants collapse in wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove and destroy affected plants. Improve drainage and avoid overhead watering. Do not mulch directly against the crown. Space plants for airflow and avoid replanting in the same wet spot.