PL. —Euphorbia myrsinitesBotanical illustration — drop image
Euphorbia myrsinites

Donkey Tail Spurge

SpringSummerFallInvasive
5a9bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Euphorbia myrsinites is a trailing succulent perennial native to rocky hillsides and cliffs across southeastern Europe and western Asia. Its stems wind outward from a central crown, each clothed in spiraling rows of fleshy, blue-green leaves that hold color year-round in mild climates. Chartreuse-yellow flower bracts appear in late winter to early spring, making it one of the earliest-interest plants in a dry or rock garden. It works well draped over retaining walls, tucked into gravel beds, and planted at the top of dry slopes.

The plant is classified as invasive in Colorado, Montana, Oregon, and Utah, where self-seeding allows it to escape into natural areas; do not plant it where it can spread beyond the garden. Cutting spent flower stalks before seeds ripen is the primary containment measure. The milky latex is a serious contact irritant that causes dermatitis and can permanently damage eyes—wear nitrile gloves and eye protection whenever stems are cut or disturbed. Performance is best in poor, sharply drained soil; heavy clay or consistently wet ground causes rapid crown and root rot, and supplemental fertilizer is unnecessary and counterproductive.

Care guide
SunFull sun
WaterLow
SoilWell-drained, sandy or rocky, poor to average
Spacing18–24 in
Height6–12 in
Zone5a – 9b
Direct sowFrost hardyInvasive
Seasonal tasks
spring
watchScout the surrounding bed margins, gravel paths, and wall bases for volunteer seedlings in spring; pull them by hand before they establish a taproot.
cutRemove dead or frost-damaged stems at the crown in early spring as new growth begins. Wear nitrile gloves and eye protection—latex is released immediately on cutting.
cutCut spent flower stalks back to the crown before seed capsules mature and eject seed. This is the single most important step for preventing invasive spread.
summer
watchCheck drainage around the crown during summer rain periods. Persistent moisture at the base causes crown rot; improve drainage with coarse grit or relocate if standing water accumulates.
fall
sowDirect sow seeds onto well-drained, prepared soil in fall to allow natural cold stratification over winter. Alternatively, cold-stratify seed for 4–6 weeks in damp sand in the refrigerator, then sow indoors in late winter.
watchPatrol garden edges in fall for late-germinating seedlings and remove them before winter. Note any stems showing soft, discolored bases and cut them out.
Common problems

Root rot

Symptoms

Plants wilt, yellow, and stunt even in moist soil; lower stems and roots turn brown, soft, and mushy and the plant may collapse. Most common in heavy, wet, or poorly drained ground.

Treatment

Improve drainage and stop overwatering, and never plant too deep. Lift and destroy badly affected plants along with the soil around the roots. Grow in raised or free-draining beds to prevent it returning.

Crown Rot

Symptoms

Lower leaves yellow and wilt; the base of the rosette turns brown and soft, sometimes with white fungal threads at the soil line. Plants collapse in wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove and destroy affected plants. Improve drainage and avoid overhead watering. Do not mulch directly against the crown. Space plants for airflow and avoid replanting in the same wet spot.