English Lavender
Lavandula angustifolia

English Lavender

5a–8bHardiness zone
Summer
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Peak bloom
Fall
Peak bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

English lavender is a woody evergreen herb, 18 to 24 inches, with fragrant grey-green foliage and spikes of purple flowers in early summer that bees and butterflies work from the first bud to the last. The flowers are used fresh or dried for sachets, baking and tea, and the plant edges paths and fills gravel gardens. It is the most cold-hardy lavender, which makes it the reliable choice for cold-winter gardens; 'Hidcote' and 'Munstead' are the standard compact forms.

It requires sharp drainage and dies in wet or heavy soil, especially in winter. Plant it in spring on a slope, in a raised bed or in gravel, 18 to 24 inches apart, in lean, alkaline soil in full sun, and water only until it is established; never mulch with bark or compost against the crown, which holds moisture and rots it. Gravel or sand is the right mulch. Prune after flowering, taking the spent spikes and an inch of foliage, and again lightly in spring for shape, but never cut into old bare wood, which does not regrow.

Harvest for drying when the first flowers on the spike have opened, in the morning, and hang bundles in a dark, airy place. Plants are at their best for five to eight years; take cuttings in summer to keep a stock. Deer and rabbits leave it alone. Native to the Mediterranean; hardy in zones 5 to 8, with the hybrid lavandins taking over in the warm, humid South.

Growing lavender? Read the Lavender Growing Guide - which species suits your zone, drainage, pruning, and harvesting for drying, timed to your frost dates.
Care guide
SunFull sun; 8+ hours
WaterLow; drought tolerant; dies in wet or heavy soil
SoilWell-draining, lean to average; alkaline preferred; excellent in gravel or raised beds
Spacing18–24 inches
Height18–24 inches
Zone5a – 8b
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
winter
buyBuy plants - about two months before planting out
spring
buyBuy plants - about two months before planting out
cutFirst light shear: On established plants, shear off any winter-damaged tips and shape lightly just as new growth resumes - still cutting into green growth only, never into bare woody stems that won't regenerate.
plantPlant into sharp drainage: Set out nursery plants or rooted cuttings once the soil has warmed and the last frost has passed.
plantTake softwood cuttings: Take 3–4 in non-flowering shoot tips and root them in gritty, well-drained propagation mix.
watchWatch for root and crown rot: Spring rains are when lavender is most at risk.
cutHarvest for drying: Cut stems when about a third of the florets on each spike have opened - this is the point of peak oil concentration.
summer
plantPlant into sharp drainage: Set out nursery plants or rooted cuttings once the soil has warmed and the last frost has passed.
plantTake softwood cuttings: Take 3–4 in non-flowering shoot tips and root them in gritty, well-drained propagation mix.
watchWatch for root and crown rot: Spring rains are when lavender is most at risk.
cutHarvest for drying: Cut stems when about a third of the florets on each spike have opened - this is the point of peak oil concentration.
cutShear after the main flush: Once flowering finishes, shear the whole plant back by about a third into green growth - never into old bare wood.
watchWatch for lavender shab and grey mould: Humid late-summer weather is prime season for lavender shab (stems wilting and dying back from the tip) and botrytis grey mould.
watchStop pruning before frost: Make any last light tidy at least a month before your first frost.
fall
watchStop pruning before frost: Make any last light tidy at least a month before your first frost.
overwinterMulch marginal plants for winter: In zones at the cold edge of a species' range, leave the season's growth in place (don't cut back) and mulch lightly around - not over - the crown after the ground begins to cool.
Common problems

Phytophthora Root Rot

Symptoms

Wilting despite moist soil, yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and dark, decayed roots and crown tissue. Vines may collapse during hot weather.

Treatment

Plant in well-draining soil and avoid waterlogging. Remove and destroy affected vines. Improve drainage with raised beds or amended soil and avoid overwatering.

Botrytis (grey mould)

Symptoms

Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.

Lavender Shab Disease

Symptoms

Shoots wilt and die back individually while the rest of the plant looks healthy. Small dark fungal bodies may appear on infected stems, and dieback spreads over the season.

Treatment

Prune out and destroy affected stems well below the wilted section, cleaning tools between cuts. Remove severely infected plants. Improve air circulation, avoid overhead watering, and plant in well-draining soil to limit spread.

From the field journal