PL. —Camassia quamashBotanical illustration — drop image
Camassia quamash

Common Camas

Spring
4a9bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Camassia quamash is a spring-blooming perennial corm native to moist prairies, meadows, and open woodlands from British Columbia to California and east to Montana and Utah. It produces upright stems lined with pale to deep blue-violet flowers in mid-spring and naturalizes readily into rain gardens, lawn meadows, and low-maintenance native plantings.

Plants grow from fleshy corms planted in fall. They need consistent moisture from fall through spring but tolerate summer drought during dormancy. Camassia performs well in heavy clay soils and seasonally wet areas where most bulbs would rot. Colonies spread slowly by corm offsets and self-seeding; leaving seed heads intact encourages naturalization. Ideal soil pH is 6.0–7.0. Corms planted shallower than 3 inches are prone to frost heaving in zones 4–5; mulching in late fall helps stabilize soil temperature.

Camassia quamash corms were among the most important carbohydrate sources for Indigenous peoples across the Pacific Northwest, including the Nez Perce, Blackfoot, Kalapuya, and many Coast Salish peoples. Corms were pit-roasted or steam-cooked to convert inulin to fructose, then dried for winter storage or traded across wide territories. Access to camas prairies was central to territorial economies and a factor in the 1863 Nez Perce treaty conflicts. Any gardener harvesting corms must distinguish this species from death camas (Anticlea elegans), which grows in similar habitats; death camas produces white to cream flowers and is toxic.

Care guide
SunFull sun to part shade
WaterRegular
SoilMoist, well-drained, loamy
Spacing3–6 in
Height12–24 in
Zone4a – 9b
Native RegionCA, ID, MT, NV, OR, UT, WA, WY
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
spring
watchLeave seed heads intact after flowering if you want the colony to self-seed; seedlings take 3–5 years to reach blooming size.
watchWatch for foliage emerging in late winter or early spring; keep soil consistently moist and avoid compacting the ground near emerging shoots.
watchInspect corms in poorly drained spots for bacterial soft rot; lift and discard any corms that are soft, discolored, or foul-smelling.
summer
cutAllow foliage to yellow and wither completely before cutting it back; removing green leaves prematurely depletes corm energy and reduces the following year's display.
watchMark planting edges with stakes before foliage disappears; dormant corms are easy to damage unintentionally during summer soil work.
fall
sowPlant corms 3–4 in deep and 3–6 in apart in early to mid-fall before the ground freezes; plant in drifts of 10 or more for naturalistic effect.
sowDivide overcrowded clumps every 3–5 years in late summer or early fall; lift corms carefully, separate offsets, and replant immediately at the same depth.
Common problems

Bacterial Soft Rot

Symptoms

Rhizomes turn mushy and foul-smelling; foliage yellows and pulls away easily at the base. Often follows borer damage or overly wet soil.

Treatment

Cut away all soft tissue back to firm rhizome, let it dry, and dust the cut with sulfur. Improve drainage and avoid burying rhizomes. Destroy badly infected plants.

Crown Rot

Symptoms

Lower leaves yellow and wilt; the base of the rosette turns brown and soft, sometimes with white fungal threads at the soil line. Plants collapse in wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove and destroy affected plants. Improve drainage and avoid overhead watering. Do not mulch directly against the crown. Space plants for airflow and avoid replanting in the same wet spot.