Brassica oleracea var. italica

Broccoli

3a–9bHardiness zone
SpringSummerFall
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Peak bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Gallery
Broccoli
Background

Broccoli is a cool-season brassica that wants cold nights and steady moisture; heat makes it bolt and button before it forms a proper head. The central head is the main crop, but the side shoots that follow give smaller heads for weeks, which is where most of the harvest from a home garden comes from.

Start seed indoors six to eight weeks before last frost and transplant two to four weeks before it, 18 to 24 inches apart in rich soil with compost worked in; it tolerates frost and improves in flavour after a cold spell. For a fall crop, which is usually the better one, count back 90 days from first frost and start transplants then. Keep it evenly watered and side-dress with compost when the heads start to form. Harvest the central head while the buds are tight and before any yellow shows.

Cabbage white caterpillars, cabbage loopers and flea beetles are the pests; a row cover from transplanting until the heads form keeps all three off without spraying. Rotate brassicas to a new bed each year to stay ahead of clubroot. Let a late plant flower and the yellow blooms are covered in bees. Deer and rabbits graze broccoli, so it belongs inside the fence.

Care guide
SunFull sun
WaterRegular; consistent moisture produces tight, tender heads
SoilRich, well-draining; pH 6.0–7.0; benefits from added compost
Spacing18–24 inches
Height18–30 inches
Zone3a – 9b
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
spring
cutHarvest central head before any florets open to yellow; cut at an angle to shed water
cutContinue harvesting side shoots - they'll produce for several weeks after the main head
sowStart seeds indoors - earliest window, 6 weeks before last frost; broccoli needs 4–6 weeks before transplanting
sowLast window to start broccoli indoors - 5 weeks before last frost
watchTransplant 2–4 weeks before last frost - tolerates hard frost and benefits from cold
summer
plantStart fall transplants indoors - count about 90 days (13 weeks) back from first frost
Common problems

Clubroot

Symptoms

Swollen, distorted roots; wilting in midday heat; stunted growth and yellowing foliage. Plants recover poorly even with watering.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected plants with roots. Raise soil pH toward 7.2 with lime. Improve drainage and rotate out of brassicas for several years.

Downy mildew

Symptoms

Yellowing on top of leaves with grey-purple fuzz underneath. Spreads rapidly in humid conditions.

Treatment

Remove affected leaves. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Copper spray as preventive.

Alternaria blight

Symptoms

Brown circular spots with yellow halos on leaves; spreads rapidly in wet weather.

Treatment

Remove affected leaves immediately. Water at the base only. A copper-based fungicide can help if caught early.

Pests

Flea Beetle

Alticini →
Symptoms

Small round shot-holes scattered across leaves; tiny dark beetles that jump when disturbed. Heavy feeding stunts young plants.

Treatment

Use floating row covers on seedlings. Remove crop debris and weeds that harbor beetles. Apply kaolin clay or spinosad if damage is severe.

Aphids

Aphididae →
Symptoms

Clusters of small soft insects on new growth and flower buds.

Treatment

Knock off with a strong jet of water. Ladybirds and lacewings are natural predators. Insecticidal soap as last resort.

Cabbage Worm

Pieris rapae →
Symptoms

Ragged holes in leaves and green velvety caterpillars on undersides; dark green frass collects in leaf crevices and head.

Treatment

Handpick caterpillars and eggs. Apply Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) weekly during egg-laying. Use floating row cover to exclude white cabbage moths.