PL. —Capsicum annuumBotanical illustration — drop image
Capsicum annuum

Bell Pepper

SpringSummerFall
4a11bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Peak bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Bell pepper is a warm-season annual vegetable grown for its hollow, blocky fruit, harvested green or at full color (red, yellow, orange). In Zone 6b it is grown as an annual because it has no frost tolerance. Gardeners value it for high yields from compact plants and a long harvest window from midsummer to first frost.

Peppers require warm soil and steady heat to set fruit; they stall below 55°F and drop blossoms above 90°F. Start seed indoors 8–10 weeks before last frost and transplant only after soil and nights have warmed. Plants benefit from staking once fruit load increases, and consistent moisture prevents blossom-end rot.

Fruit is used raw, roasted, stuffed, or preserved. Bell peppers are a notable dietary source of vitamin C and vitamin A. Unlike hot peppers, they contain negligible capsaicin and have no significant traditional medicinal use beyond their nutritional content.

Keep apart
fennelKohlrabi
Care guide
SunFull sun; 8+ hours
WaterRegular; consistent moisture once fruiting begins
SoilRich, well-draining, slightly acidic (pH 6.0–6.8)
Spacing18–24 inches
Height24–36 inches
Zone4a – 11b
Seasonal tasks
winter
sowStart seeds indoors — peppers need 10–12 weeks before transplant; germinate best with bottom heat at 80–85°F
sowLast window to start seeds indoors — still 9 weeks before last frost
spring
watchTransplant outdoors after last frost when nights are reliably above 55°F and soil has warmed
summer
cutHarvest green for continuous production, or leave to ripen to red, yellow, or orange — fully ripe peppers are sweeter
Common problems

Blossom End Rot

Symptoms

Sunken, dark leathery patch on the bottom end of the fruit. Caused by calcium uptake disruption from uneven watering.

Treatment

Maintain consistent soil moisture and mulch. Avoid overfertilizing with nitrogen. Test soil and amend calcium if deficient.

Bacterial Soft Rot

Symptoms

Rhizomes turn mushy and foul-smelling; foliage yellows and pulls away easily at the base. Often follows borer damage or overly wet soil.

Treatment

Cut away all soft tissue back to firm rhizome, let it dry, and dust the cut with sulfur. Improve drainage and avoid burying rhizomes. Destroy badly infected plants.

Mosaic virus

Symptoms

Yellowing, mottled, or distorted leaves. No cure — spread by aphids.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected plants. Control aphid populations to prevent spread. Do not propagate from infected tubers.

Phytophthora Root Rot

Symptoms

Wilting despite moist soil, yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and dark, decayed roots and crown tissue. Vines may collapse during hot weather.

Treatment

Plant in well-draining soil and avoid waterlogging. Remove and destroy affected vines. Improve drainage with raised beds or amended soil and avoid overwatering.

Pepper Anthracnose Fruit Rot

Symptoms

Sunken, circular lesions on ripening fruit with concentric rings and pink or black spore masses in the center. Spreads quickly in warm, wet weather.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected fruit. Avoid overhead watering and improve airflow with proper spacing. Rotate away from peppers and tomatoes for 2–3 years. Use disease-free seed and apply copper-based fungicide preventively in wet seasons.

Pests

Aphids

Aphididae
Symptoms

Clusters of small soft insects on new growth and flower buds.

Treatment

Knock off with a strong jet of water. Ladybirds and lacewings are natural predators. Insecticidal soap as last resort.

Flea Beetle

Alticini
Symptoms

Small round shot-holes scattered across leaves; tiny dark beetles that jump when disturbed. Heavy feeding stunts young plants.

Treatment

Use floating row covers on seedlings. Remove crop debris and weeds that harbor beetles. Apply kaolin clay or spinosad if damage is severe.