Carrot
Daucus carota

Carrot

3a–10bHardiness zone
SpringSummerFall
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
In bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Peak bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Carrots are a cool-tolerant root crop direct-sown in succession for a long supply. Danvers is the broad-shouldered, tapered type that pushes through heavier ground better than the slender Nantes, which makes it the carrot for a garden with less than perfect soil. It reaches 6 to 8 inches and stores well.

Carrots want deep, loose, stone-free soil; clay or rocks make the roots fork and stunt. Sow a quarter inch deep every three weeks from a few weeks before last frost into midsummer. Germination is slow, 10 to 20 days, so keep the seed bed constantly moist or lay a board or burlap over it until the sprouts show, then thin to 2 to 3 inches early; crowded carrots stay small. Even water matters most, since a dry spell followed by rain cracks the roots.

Fall carrots harvested after frost are the sweetest, because cold turns stored starch to sugar, and they can be left in the ground under a thick mulch and dug through winter in most zones. The carrot rust fly lays eggs at the base of the plants; a row cover from sowing, or sowing after the first fly generation in early summer, keeps the roots clean. Let a few go to flower in the second year and the umbels feed hoverflies and tiny wasps.

Care guide
SunFull sun
WaterRegular; inconsistent moisture causes cracked or forked roots
SoilDeep, loose, stone-free; heavy clay or rocks cause branching and stunted roots
Spacing2–3 inches (thin early; crowding reduces root size)
Height12–18 inches foliage
Zone3a – 10b
WinterAnnual - roots can be left in ground through light frosts; mulch heavily to extend harvest.
Direct sowFrost hardy
Seasonal tasks
spring
sowDirect sow
summer
sowDirect sow
fall
cutHarvest fall carrots after first light frost - cold sweetens the roots dramatically
Common problems

Alternaria blight

Symptoms

Brown circular spots with yellow halos on leaves; spreads rapidly in wet weather.

Treatment

Remove affected leaves immediately. Water at the base only. A copper-based fungicide can help if caught early.

Aster Yellows

Symptoms

Deformed, greenish flowers, stunted growth, and yellowed foliage. Flower centers may produce tufts of leafy growth instead of normal petals.

Treatment

No cure. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately to stop spread. Control leafhoppers, which transmit the disease, and remove nearby weed hosts.

Cavity Spot

Symptoms

Sunken, gray-brown elliptical lesions across the root surface, sometimes cracking. Caused by Pythium in wet soils.

Treatment

Improve drainage and avoid overwatering. Maintain pH near 6.5 and avoid excess potassium. Rotate away from carrots for 3–4 years in affected beds.

Pests

Aphids

Aphididae →
Symptoms

Clusters of small soft insects on new growth and flower buds.

Treatment

Knock off with a strong jet of water. Ladybirds and lacewings are natural predators. Insecticidal soap as last resort.

Carrot Rust Fly

Psila rosae →
Symptoms

Rust-colored tunnels and brown scarring through the outer root. Foliage may yellow or wilt. Larvae are small white maggots in the root surface.

Treatment

Cover beds with insect netting at sowing. Delay sowing past the first generation and avoid leaving thinnings in the bed, since their scent attracts flies. Rotate crops yearly.