Bunching Onion / Scallion
Allium fistulosum

Bunching Onion / Scallion

3a–9bHardiness zone
SpringSummerFall
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
In bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Peak bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Bunching onions, or scallions, are perennial alliums grown for their mild green stalks rather than a swollen bulb. They mature faster than bulb onions, tolerate cold, and can be picked over a long window, which makes them a reliable cut-and-come-again crop for a small garden. Pulled young they are the scallions of the market; left to thicken they make a leek-like white stalk.

Sow directly a few weeks before last frost, a quarter inch deep and an inch or two apart in rich, loose soil, and again every few weeks until late summer for a steady supply. They are shallow-rooted, so keep the bed weeded and the soil evenly moist. Pull plants as needed from the time they reach pencil thickness, or cut the tops an inch above the ground and let them regrow.

Established clumps can be left in the ground for years; they divide themselves into bunches, and you can lift and split them in spring or fall to multiply the planting. They overwinter through zone 3 and are often the first green thing in the garden. Let a clump flower and the white globes feed bees and hoverflies. Deer and rabbits leave onions alone.

In these starter beds
Care guide
SunFull sun
WaterRegular; consistent moisture for tender stalks
SoilRich, loose, well-draining
Spacing1–2 inches
Height12–18 inches
Zone3a – 9b
Direct sowFrost hardy
Seasonal tasks
spring
sowSuccession sow - direct sow as early as soil is workable; bunching onions tolerate frost; sow every 3 weeks through about 9 weeks before fall frost
summer
sowSuccession sow - direct sow as early as soil is workable; bunching onions tolerate frost; sow every 3 weeks through about 9 weeks before fall frost
watchLast sow (~9 weeks before fall frost) - bunching onions need 60–70 days to maturity; anything after this won't finish before first frost
Common problems

Downy mildew

Symptoms

Yellowing on top of leaves with grey-purple fuzz underneath. Spreads rapidly in humid conditions.

Treatment

Remove affected leaves. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Copper spray as preventive.

White Rust

Symptoms

Raised white to cream-colored pustules on leaf undersides, with yellow blotches on upper surfaces. Infected tissue may swell or distort.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected leaves. Improve air circulation and avoid overhead watering. Rotate brassicas and avoid planting in previously infected soil.

Onion White Rot

Symptoms

Yellowing and dieback of leaves, soft rotting at the base, and a fluffy white fungal growth with small black sclerotia on roots and lower stems.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected plants. Do not compost. Avoid replanting alliums in affected soil for several years and rotate crops. There is no chemical cure once established.

Pests

Onion Thrips

Thrips tabaci →
Symptoms

Silvery streaks and stippling on leaves, distorted growth, and tiny pale insects hiding in leaf bases during hot, dry weather.

Treatment

Spray plants with water to dislodge thrips, encourage predatory insects, and apply insecticidal soap if populations build. Keep plants watered to reduce stress.