PL. —Camassia cusickiiBotanical illustration — drop image
Camassia cusickii

Cusick's Camas

Spring
4a8bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Camassia cusickii, Cusick's camas, is a narrow endemic of Oregon's Wallowa Mountains, where it grows in seasonally wet meadows that dry out completely by midsummer. It carries the largest bulbs of any Camassia species — some reaching the size of a small onion — which store enough energy to push up sturdy stems of soft, powder-blue, star-shaped flowers in mid-spring, a paler and more silvery blue than the deeper violet-blue of common or great camas.

Despite its narrow wild range, it is easy and adaptable in cultivation, tolerating the same heavy, seasonally wet clay soil that suits the rest of the genus. Plant the large bulbs in fall in full sun to light shade, in drifts for the best display, and let the foliage die back naturally each summer as the bulbs go dormant. It naturalizes well by offsets over time, and its distinct powder-blue color makes an effective contrast planted alongside the deeper blue-violet of common or great camas rather than as a replacement for either. As with the rest of the genus, correctly identify bulbs before any thought of eating them — death camas (Anticlea elegans) is toxic and can resemble camas foliage.

Care guide
SunFull sun to part shade
WaterRegular
SoilMoist, well-drained, loamy
Spacing4–6 in
Height24–36 in
Zone4a – 8b
Native RegionOR
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
spring
watchWatch for foliage emerging in late winter or early spring; keep soil consistently moist and avoid compacting the ground near emerging shoots
summer
cutAllow foliage to yellow and wither completely before cutting it back; removing green leaves prematurely depletes bulb energy and reduces the following year's display
watchLeave seed heads intact after flowering if you want the colony to self-seed; seedlings take 3–5 years to reach blooming size
sowDivide overcrowded clumps every 3–5 years in late summer or early fall; lift bulbs carefully, separate offsets, and replant immediately at the same depth
fall
sowPlant bulbs 4–5 in deep and 4–6 in apart in early to mid-fall before the ground freezes; plant in drifts of 10 or more for naturalistic effect
Common problems

Bacterial Soft Rot

Symptoms

Rhizomes turn mushy and foul-smelling; foliage yellows and pulls away easily at the base. Often follows borer damage or overly wet soil.

Treatment

Cut away all soft tissue back to firm rhizome, let it dry, and dust the cut with sulfur. Improve drainage and avoid burying rhizomes. Destroy badly infected plants.

Crown Rot

Symptoms

Lower leaves yellow and wilt; the base of the rosette turns brown and soft, sometimes with white fungal threads at the soil line. Plants collapse in wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove and destroy affected plants. Improve drainage and avoid overhead watering. Do not mulch directly against the crown. Space plants for airflow and avoid replanting in the same wet spot.