Arugula is a fast-growing leafy green in the brassica family, grown for its peppery leaves. It matures in 30–40 days and tolerates light frost, making it one of the earliest and latest crops of the season. Gardeners value it for quick returns and repeated cut-and-come-again harvests.
It bolts quickly in heat, turning bitter once temperatures rise and days lengthen. Grow it in spring and fall rather than midsummer. Sow small batches every two to three weeks for a steady supply, and harvest outer leaves young to extend the picking window before flowering.
Downy mildew
Yellowing on top of leaves with grey-purple fuzz underneath. Spreads rapidly in humid conditions.
Remove affected leaves. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Copper spray as preventive.
White Rust
Raised white to cream-colored pustules on leaf undersides, with yellow blotches on upper surfaces. Infected tissue may swell or distort.
Remove and destroy infected leaves. Improve air circulation and avoid overhead watering. Rotate brassicas and avoid planting in previously infected soil.
Flea Beetle
Small round shot-holes scattered across leaves; tiny dark beetles that jump when disturbed. Heavy feeding stunts young plants.
Use floating row covers on seedlings. Remove crop debris and weeds that harbor beetles. Apply kaolin clay or spinosad if damage is severe.
Damping Off
Seedlings collapse at the soil line with thin, water-soaked stems; seeds may fail to emerge or rot before sprouting.
Sow in well-draining mix, avoid overwatering, and ensure good airflow. Remove affected seedlings and let the surface dry between waterings.
Bacterial Soft Rot
Rhizomes turn mushy and foul-smelling; foliage yellows and pulls away easily at the base. Often follows borer damage or overly wet soil.
Cut away all soft tissue back to firm rhizome, let it dry, and dust the cut with sulfur. Improve drainage and avoid burying rhizomes. Destroy badly infected plants.