PL. —Tricyrtis macropodaBotanical illustration — drop image
Tricyrtis macropoda

Toad Lily

SummerFall
4a8aHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Not in bloom
Summer
Peak bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Tricyrtis macropoda is a clump-forming woodland perennial native to forested slopes in China, Korea, and Japan. It fills a difficult niche in the shade garden, producing white flowers heavily spotted with purple along arching stems in late summer and into fall, when few shade perennials are performing.

The plant spreads slowly by rhizomes and self-seeds lightly. It thrives in humus-rich soil with consistent moisture and declines quickly in dry or compacted ground. A 2–3 in mulch layer over the root zone conserves moisture and keeps roots cool through summer. Soil pH between 5.5 and 7.0 is suitable; alkaline conditions cause gradual decline. Stems die back each winter while rhizomes overwinter reliably through zone 4.

Care guide
SunPart shade to full shade
WaterConsistent moisture
SoilMoist, well-drained, humus-rich
Spacing18–24 in
Height24–36 in
Zone4a – 8a
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
spring
sowDivide overcrowded clumps by lifting and separating rhizomes before new shoots emerge.
sowApply 2–3 in of shredded leaf or bark mulch over the root zone to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
watchCheck emerging shoots for slug and snail damage; hand-pick or apply iron phosphate bait around the base of plants.
summer
watchMaintain consistent soil moisture during dry spells; inward browning of leaf margins is a reliable sign of drought stress.
watchInspect foliage for angular brown patches bounded by leaf veins — the primary symptom of foliar nematode infestation. Remove and discard affected leaves immediately; do not compost them.
watchMonitor for fungal leaf spots in dense, humid plantings; thin crowded stems to improve airflow if spotting appears.
fall
cutCut all stems to ground level after a hard frost kills the foliage.
sowTop-dress the cleared area with 1–2 in of compost to replenish organic matter before winter.
Common problems

Fungal leaf spot

Symptoms

Brown or purplish spots on the leaves, often ringed with a yellow halo, that spread and merge in warm, humid, or wet weather; heavily spotted leaves yellow and drop early.

Treatment

Pick off spotted leaves and clear fallen debris to remove overwintering spores. Improve air circulation by thinning, and water at the base so foliage dries quickly. If it persists, apply a copper- or sulfur-based fungicide at the first sign.

Botrytis (grey mould)

Symptoms

Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.

Foliar Nematode

Symptoms

Angular brown patches appear between leaf veins, progressing upward from lower leaves. The geometric, vein-bounded pattern distinguishes nematode damage from fungal leaf spots. Heavily infested leaves yellow and drop prematurely.

Treatment

Remove and dispose of all affected foliage away from the garden; do not compost. Switch to drip or base watering to keep foliage dry — water on leaves allows nematodes to migrate between plants. Divide clumps only from clean, symptom-free sections. No chemical treatment is reliably effective once established; strict sanitation and dry foliage are the primary controls.