Strawflowers are the finest dried flower in the cutting garden — the papery bracts retain their vivid colour for years after drying, in shades of red, orange, yellow, pink, white, and burgundy. They bloom all summer long in hot, sunny positions, asking little in return. As annuals in Zone 6b, start indoors 4–6 weeks before last frost or direct sow after frost in warm soil.
For drying, harvest when the flowers are about half open — they continue to open as they dry, and a fully open flower will shatter. Bundle loosely and hang upside-down in a warm, dry, airy location away from light. Fresh vase life is shorter than other flowers but the dried result is the real point.
Powdery mildew
White or grey powdery coating on leaves — usually starting on older growth in humid conditions or when nights cool.
Improve air circulation by thinning plants. Apply neem oil or potassium bicarbonate spray at first sign. Avoid overhead watering.
Downy mildew
Yellowing on top of leaves with grey-purple fuzz underneath. Spreads rapidly in humid conditions.
Remove affected leaves. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Copper spray as preventive.
Aphids
Clusters of small soft insects on new growth and flower buds.
Knock off with a strong jet of water. Ladybirds and lacewings are natural predators. Insecticidal soap as last resort.
Botrytis (grey mould)
Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.
Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.
Strawflower Root Rot
Wilting despite moist soil, yellowing lower leaves, and soft, brown roots. Plants collapse in poorly drained or overwatered conditions.
Plant in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering. Let soil dry between waterings. Remove and discard affected plants and do not replant in the same spot without improving drainage.