Lemongrass
Cymbopogon citratus

Lemongrass

9a–11bHardiness zone
SummerFall
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
In bloom
Summer
Peak bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Lemongrass is a tropical grass grown for its fragrant stalks, the essential herb of Thai and Vietnamese cooking, and the leaves make a lemon tea. It forms a fountain of arching blades 3 to 5 feet tall in a hot summer and is a perennial only in zones 9 to 11; elsewhere it is grown as an annual, planted after last frost when the soil is fully warm, or kept in a pot.

It needs a long season to make thick, usable stalks, so start early: buy transplants, or root a few stalks from the grocery store in a glass of water in late winter and pot them up. Set plants out 24 to 36 inches apart in full sun and rich, loamy soil, and keep them well watered and fed; drought slows it to a stop. A single plant in a 5-gallon pot does well on a sunny patio.

Harvest the outer stalks by twisting them off at the base once they reach pencil thickness, using the pale lower stem in cooking and the leaves for tea. Before frost, dig and pot a division, cut it back to a foot, and overwinter it on the sunniest window; it slows dramatically but survives. The sharp-edged leaves cut skin, so wear gloves. Deer, rabbits and mosquitoes keep their distance, the last one less reliably than the marketing suggests.

Good companions
Care guide
SunFull sun - 8+ hours
WaterRegular; consistent moisture for best production; drought slows growth
SoilRich, well-draining, loamy
Spacing24–36 inches
Height3–5 feet
Zone9a – 11b
WinterTender tropical - pot up and overwinter on a sunny south-facing windowsill above 50°F. Water sparingly.
Seasonal tasks
winter
sowStart indoors 8–10 weeks before last frost - needs warm soil to establish
spring
watchTransplant outdoors after last frost when soil is above 65°F; grow in the warmest spot available
summer
cutHarvest outer stalks at pencil thickness by twisting off at the base
fall
watchPot up and bring indoors before first frost to overwinter on a sunny windowsill
Common problems

Rust

Symptoms

Orange to brown raised pustules on the undersides of leaves, with yellow spotting on the upper surface. Heavy infections cause leaves to yellow and drop.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected leaves. Avoid overhead watering and improve air circulation. Apply a sulfur or copper-based fungicide if it spreads. Clear plant debris in fall.

Crown Rot

Symptoms

Lower leaves yellow and wilt; the base of the rosette turns brown and soft, sometimes with white fungal threads at the soil line. Plants collapse in wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove and destroy affected plants. Improve drainage and avoid overhead watering. Do not mulch directly against the crown. Space plants for airflow and avoid replanting in the same wet spot.

Pests

Spider Mites

Tetranychus urticae →
Symptoms

Fine stippling or bronzing on leaves, faint webbing on undersides, foliage drying out during hot, dry weather.

Treatment

Spray foliage with a strong jet of water to dislodge mites. Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil to leaf undersides; repeat every 5–7 days as needed.