PL. —Hemerocallis fulva 'Kwanso Flore Plena'Botanical illustration — drop image
Hemerocallis fulva 'Kwanso Flore Plena'

Daylily 'Kwanso Flore Plena'

SpringSummerFall
3a9bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Peak bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Hemerocallis fulva 'Kwanso Flore Plena' is a fully double-flowered, triploid cultivar of the common orange ditch lily, selected in Japan and long cultivated across East Asia before reaching Western gardens. Its large, ruffled, deep orange blooms with reddish streaking are sterile and last one day each, replaced in rapid succession over several weeks in early to midsummer. Because it sets no viable seed, spread occurs entirely by rhizome.

The plant is exceptionally tolerant of poor soils, slopes, roadside conditions, and neglect. Its dense rhizome mat suppresses weeds effectively and controls erosion on banks and embankments. That same vigor can become a management challenge in mixed borders; divide clumps every three to four years to check spread. In drier climates a 2–3 inch mulch layer conserves moisture and helps contain rhizome creep into adjacent planting areas. Cold-hardiness extends reliably to zone 3a with no additional protection required.

The flower buds and young spring shoots of H. fulva have a documented history of use in East Asian cooking — dried buds are the golden needles used in Chinese braised dishes and hot-and-sour soups. In traditional Chinese medicine, dried buds have been employed for anxiety, insomnia, and as a hemostatic agent. H. fulva carries nephrotoxic risk for cats and should be sited accordingly.

Good companions
Care guide
SunFull sun to part shade
WaterLow
SoilAdaptable, well-drained
Spacing18–24 in
Height30–48 in
Zone3a – 9b
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
spring
watchMonitor rhizome spread at bed edges as new growth emerges; sever and remove runners that cross intended boundaries before they establish.
sowDivide established clumps and replant rhizome fans 18–24 in apart as soil becomes workable in early spring.
summer
cutRemove spent scapes at the base once all buds on a given scape have opened and faded.
watchCheck foliage for the yellow-orange pustules of daylily rust and the tan lengthwise streaks of leaf streak beginning in early summer.
sowDivide overcrowded clumps in late summer, replanting fans 18–24 in apart and watering in well before autumn temperatures drop.
fall
cutCut foliage to 3–4 in above ground after the first hard frost to tidy the bed and reduce overwintering sites for foliar pathogens.
Common problems

Rust

Symptoms

Orange to brown raised pustules on the undersides of leaves, with yellow spotting on the upper surface. Heavy infections cause leaves to yellow and drop.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected leaves. Avoid overhead watering and improve air circulation. Apply a sulfur or copper-based fungicide if it spreads. Clear plant debris in fall.

Crown Rot

Symptoms

Lower leaves yellow and wilt; the base of the rosette turns brown and soft, sometimes with white fungal threads at the soil line. Plants collapse in wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove and destroy affected plants. Improve drainage and avoid overhead watering. Do not mulch directly against the crown. Space plants for airflow and avoid replanting in the same wet spot.

Daylily Leaf Streak

Symptoms

Yellow streaks running lengthwise along leaves from tip toward base, progressing to tan or brown necrotic tissue; heavily infected leaves die back prematurely, leaving the clump looking scorched by midsummer.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected foliage as soon as symptoms appear. Avoid overhead irrigation. Apply a broad-spectrum fungicide labeled for Aureobasidium at first sign of infection and repeat per label intervals during wet periods. Cut all foliage to ground level in fall and dispose of debris away from the garden to reduce inoculum for the following season.