Bishop of Llandaff Dahlia
Dahlia coccinea, 'Bishop of Llandaff'

Bishop of Llandaff Dahlia

8a–11bHardiness zone
SummerFall
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Not in bloom
Summer
Peak bloom
Fall
Peak bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Gallery
Bishop of Llandaff Dahlia
Background

'Bishop of Llandaff' is the dahlia that made dark foliage fashionable. Introduced in Wales in the 1920s, it carries single to semi-double scarlet flowers over near-black bronze-purple leaves, and the contrast is what every later Bishop was bred to copy. It reaches 3 to 4 feet and flowers from midsummer until frost.

The open flowers are the other reason to grow it. Unlike the full doubles, the centre is exposed, so bumblebees and butterflies work it all afternoon. Give it full sun, rich soil that drains, and a stake set at planting time; the stems are strong but a loaded plant catches wind. Pinch the growing tip when the plant is a foot tall for a bushier shape and more flowers, and deadhead to keep it going.

It is tender. North of zone 8 lift the tubers after the first frost blackens the foliage, dry them for a few days and store them cool and frost-free in peat or vermiculite, then plant out after the last frost. In mild zones a thick mulch is enough. It also comes easily from cuttings taken from sprouting tubers in spring.

Growing dahlias? Read the Dahlia Growing Guide - pinching and disbudding for more stems, the flower forms, and the winter tuber storage method, timed to your frost dates.
Care guide
SunFull sun, at least 6-8 hours of direct light per day for the best flowering and richest foliage color.
WaterKeep soil consistently moist during the growing season; water deeply once or twice a week and avoid waterlogging the tubers.
SoilRich, well-drained soil amended with compost; slightly acidic to neutral pH works best.
SpacingSpace plants 18-24 inches apart to allow good airflow and room for the bushy growth.
Height36-48 inches tall, often benefiting from staking to support the abundant blooms.
Zone8a – 11b
Seasonal tasks
winter
overwinterPack for winter storage: Once cured, pack the clumps in barely-damp vermiculite, peat, or sawdust inside a ventilated box or paper bag, and hold them at 40–50°F - a cool basement or unheated garage that never freezes is ideal.
buyOrder tubers - about two months before planting; popular cultivars sell out early
spring
buyOrder tubers - about two months before planting; popular cultivars sell out early
plantPlant tubers into warm soil: Wait until the soil is consistently above 60°F - dahlias planted into cold, wet ground rot before they ever sprout.
cutStake before it's needed: Drive the stake in at planting time, not after the plant is 3 feet tall and flopping - going in later risks spearing the tuber you can no longer see.
cutPinch the growing tip: Once the plant reaches about 12 inches, pinch out the growing tip just above a set of leaves.
summer
cutPinch the growing tip: Once the plant reaches about 12 inches, pinch out the growing tip just above a set of leaves.
watchWatch for aphids and slugs: Soft new growth draws aphids, and slugs and earwigs go straight for tender shoots and dark foliage overnight.
watchMonitor for slugs and earwigs, which are drawn to the tender new growth and dark foliage.
cutDisbud and deadhead through summer: For bigger show blooms, pinch off the two smaller side buds flanking each main bud, leaving one to develop.
cutCut for the vase: Cut in the cool of morning, just as a bloom fully opens - dahlias are one of the few cut flowers that will not keep opening in the vase once severed.
fall
overwinterLift and cure the tubers: In any zone colder than the dahlia's hardiness (most of the country), lift the clump within a few days of the blackening frost, before hard ground makes digging difficult.
overwinterPack for winter storage: Once cured, pack the clumps in barely-damp vermiculite, peat, or sawdust inside a ventilated box or paper bag, and hold them at 40–50°F - a cool basement or unheated garage that never freezes is ideal.
cutCut for the vase: Cut in the cool of morning, just as a bloom fully opens - dahlias are one of the few cut flowers that will not keep opening in the vase once severed.
watchLift and store tubers in a frost-free location before the first hard freeze.
watchWatch the forecast: Unlike most of the garden, dahlias don't fade gradually - one hard frost blackens the foliage overnight and ends the season in a single night.
Common problems

Powdery mildew

Symptoms

White or grey powdery coating on leaves - usually starting on older growth in humid conditions or when nights cool.

Treatment

Improve air circulation by thinning plants. Apply neem oil or potassium bicarbonate spray at first sign. Avoid overhead watering.

Tuber Rot

Symptoms

Stored or in-ground tubers turn soft, brown, and mushy, often with mold growth. Affected tubers fail to sprout in spring.

Treatment

Lift tubers only after foliage dies back, cure them in a dry airy spot before storage, and store in a cool dry location with breathable packing. Discard damaged or soft tubers and avoid waterlogged soil during the growing season.

Botrytis (grey mould)

Symptoms

Grey fuzzy mould on petals and stems, worst in cool wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove affected parts immediately. Improve air circulation. Avoid overhead watering. Apply copper fungicide if severe.

Crown Rot

Symptoms

Lower leaves yellow and wilt; the base of the rosette turns brown and soft, sometimes with white fungal threads at the soil line. Plants collapse in wet conditions.

Treatment

Remove and destroy affected plants. Improve drainage and avoid overhead watering. Do not mulch directly against the crown. Space plants for airflow and avoid replanting in the same wet spot.

Pests

Aphids

Aphididae →
Symptoms

Clusters of small soft insects on new growth and flower buds.

Treatment

Knock off with a strong jet of water. Ladybirds and lacewings are natural predators. Insecticidal soap as last resort.

Spider Mites

Tetranychus urticae →
Symptoms

Fine stippling or bronzing on leaves, faint webbing on undersides, foliage drying out during hot, dry weather.

Treatment

Spray foliage with a strong jet of water to dislodge mites. Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil to leaf undersides; repeat every 5–7 days as needed.