PL. —Camellia × 'Winter's Star'Botanical illustration — drop image
Camellia × 'Winter's Star'

Camellia 'Winter's Star'

FallWinter
6b9aHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Not in bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Peak bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

'Winter's Star' is a cold-hardy hybrid camellia developed from Dr. William Ackerman's breeding program at the U.S. National Arboretum, crossing the cold-tolerant Camellia oleifera with fall-blooming Camellia hiemalis to combine hardy wood with an early, reliable flowering season. Single lavender-pink flowers with a prominent center of gold stamens open in fall, well ahead of the harshest winter cold, on an upright, vigorous shrub that tolerates more sun than a traditional Camellia japonica.

Its hardiness is the whole point — wood and buds shrug off cold that would damage an unimproved camellia, which is what makes it a viable landscape plant as far north as the Mid-Atlantic and even sheltered spots in the Pacific Northwest, well outside the traditional camellia belt of the Deep South and California coast. It still wants the same acidic, evenly moist, well-drained soil every camellia prefers, and benefits from a wind-sheltered site through its first few winters while the root system establishes.

Camellias have no native range in North America — every parent species behind this hybrid is East Asian — but cold-hardy breeding lines like the Ackerman hybrids have meaningfully expanded where American gardeners can grow them.

Keep apart
Care guide
SunFull sun to part shade
WaterRegular; consistent moisture, never waterlogged
SoilMoist, well-drained, acidic
Spacing5–7 ft
Height6–9 ft
Zone6b – 9a
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
winter
cutPrune to shape immediately after flowering finishes, before new growth begins — this is the only safe window before next year's buds start forming.
watchEnjoy the lavender-pink fall bloom; in wet weather check for browned, mushy petals indicating flower blight and remove affected blooms promptly.
spring
watchApply an acid-forming, slow-release fertilizer as new growth begins; stop feeding by midsummer so growth hardens before flower buds set.
sowPlant container-grown specimens in early spring, sheltered from harsh winter wind; set the root ball slightly high to allow for settling.
summer
watchCheck foliage for tea scale on leaf undersides — a fine white speckling with yellow mottling on the upper leaf surface. Treat with horticultural oil if found.
fall
watchMonitor flower buds as they swell in fall; a stretch of drought now can cause bud drop before bloom.
Common problems

Petal blight

Symptoms

Flowers develop small watery spots that rapidly enlarge into soft brown blotches, collapsing the bloom into a slimy mass that clings to the plant instead of dropping cleanly.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected blooms and fallen petals, and clear old mulch beneath the plant where the fungus overwinters. Avoid overhead watering; in wet springs a preventive fungicide at bud break helps where it recurs.

Leaf gall

Symptoms

Leaves, buds, or young shoots thicken into pale green, reddish, or whitish fleshy galls that later turn white with a powdery spore bloom before browning.

Treatment

Pick off and destroy galls before they turn white and shed spores. Improve air circulation and avoid overhead watering in spring. The damage is largely cosmetic and rarely needs fungicide.

Phytophthora Root Rot

Symptoms

Wilting despite moist soil, yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and dark, decayed roots and crown tissue. Vines may collapse during hot weather.

Treatment

Plant in well-draining soil and avoid waterlogging. Remove and destroy affected vines. Improve drainage with raised beds or amended soil and avoid overwatering.