PL. —Camellia sasanqua 'Yuletide'Botanical illustration — drop image
Camellia sasanqua 'Yuletide'

Camellia 'Yuletide'

FallWinter
7a9bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Not in bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Peak bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Camellia sasanqua 'Yuletide' is a compact, upright evergreen camellia grown as much for its timing as its flowers — single, brilliant red blooms with a dense boss of gold-yellow stamens open reliably right around the winter holidays, filling a gap in the garden almost nothing else covers. Fine-textured, glossy dark green foliage gives it year-round presence as a hedge, screen, or foundation planting.

Like other sasanqua camellias, 'Yuletide' tolerates considerably more direct sun than the classic Camellia japonica types, which makes it more versatile for foundation plantings and hedgerows in full exposure. It still performs best with reliably moist, acidic, well-drained soil and appreciates afternoon shade in the hottest parts of its range. Prune immediately after flowering, since next year's buds set on the current season's growth over the following summer — pruning any later removes the coming winter's display.

Camellia sasanqua is native to Japan, not the United States, but has been cultivated in southeastern American gardens for generations and is a defining plant of the Gulf Coast and Deep South winter landscape.

Keep apart
Care guide
SunFull sun to part shade
WaterModerate; regular through establishment
SoilMoist, well-drained, acidic
Spacing4–6 ft
Height6–8 ft
Zone7a – 9b
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
winter
cutPrune to shape immediately after flowering finishes, before new growth begins — this is the only safe window before next winter's buds start forming.
watchEnjoy the red winter bloom; in wet weather check for browned, mushy petals indicating flower blight and remove affected blooms promptly.
spring
watchApply an acid-forming, slow-release fertilizer as new growth begins; stop feeding by midsummer so growth hardens before flower buds set.
sowPlant container-grown specimens in early spring or fall, setting the root ball slightly high to allow for settling; avoid planting deep.
summer
watchCheck foliage for tea scale on leaf undersides — a fine white speckling with yellow mottling on the upper leaf surface. Treat with horticultural oil if found.
fall
watchMonitor flower buds as they swell in fall; a stretch of drought now can cause bud drop before bloom.
Common problems

Petal blight

Symptoms

Flowers develop small watery spots that rapidly enlarge into soft brown blotches, collapsing the bloom into a slimy mass that clings to the plant instead of dropping cleanly.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected blooms and fallen petals, and clear old mulch beneath the plant where the fungus overwinters. Avoid overhead watering; in wet springs a preventive fungicide at bud break helps where it recurs.

Leaf gall

Symptoms

Leaves, buds, or young shoots thicken into pale green, reddish, or whitish fleshy galls that later turn white with a powdery spore bloom before browning.

Treatment

Pick off and destroy galls before they turn white and shed spores. Improve air circulation and avoid overhead watering in spring. The damage is largely cosmetic and rarely needs fungicide.

Phytophthora Root Rot

Symptoms

Wilting despite moist soil, yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and dark, decayed roots and crown tissue. Vines may collapse during hot weather.

Treatment

Plant in well-draining soil and avoid waterlogging. Remove and destroy affected vines. Improve drainage with raised beds or amended soil and avoid overwatering.