PL. —Camellia sasanqua 'Shishi-Gashira'Botanical illustration — drop image
Camellia sasanqua 'Shishi-Gashira'

Camellia 'Shishi-Gashira'

FallWinter
7a9bHardiness zone
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Not in bloom
Summer
Not in bloom
Fall
Peak bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Background

Camellia sasanqua 'Shishi-Gashira' is a dwarf, dense, mounding form of sasanqua camellia — among the smallest and slowest-growing camellias in general cultivation, staying well under 4 feet even at maturity. Semi-double rose-pink flowers cover the plant in fall, set against small, glossy, fine-textured foliage that gives it a tighter, neater look than most other camellias year-round.

Its compact habit makes it one of the most useful camellias for foundation plantings, low borders, and mass groupings where a full-sized shrub would overwhelm the space. Like other sasanquas it tolerates more direct sun than Camellia japonica types, though afternoon shade improves flower color and reduces stress in the hottest parts of its range. Moist, acidic, well-drained soil and a steady mulch layer support the shallow root system.

Camellia sasanqua is native to Japan, not North America, but 'Shishi-Gashira' — its name references a mythical lion's-head dance mask, a nod to the plant's dense, rounded form — has become a staple of southeastern American gardens for its reliable fall color and manageable scale.

Keep apart
Care guide
SunFull sun to part shade
WaterModerate; regular through establishment
SoilMoist, well-drained, acidic
Spacing3–4 ft
Height3–4 ft
Zone7a – 9b
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
winter
cutPrune to shape immediately after flowering finishes, before new growth begins — this dwarf form needs little more than light tidying.
watchEnjoy the rose-pink fall bloom; in wet weather check for browned, mushy petals indicating flower blight and remove affected blooms promptly.
spring
watchApply an acid-forming, slow-release fertilizer as new growth begins; stop feeding by midsummer so growth hardens before flower buds set.
sowPlant container-grown specimens in early spring or fall, setting the root ball slightly high to allow for settling; avoid planting deep.
summer
watchCheck foliage for tea scale on leaf undersides — a fine white speckling with yellow mottling on the upper leaf surface. Treat with horticultural oil if found.
fall
watchMonitor flower buds as they swell in fall; a stretch of drought now can cause bud drop before bloom.
Common problems

Petal blight

Symptoms

Flowers develop small watery spots that rapidly enlarge into soft brown blotches, collapsing the bloom into a slimy mass that clings to the plant instead of dropping cleanly.

Treatment

Remove and destroy infected blooms and fallen petals, and clear old mulch beneath the plant where the fungus overwinters. Avoid overhead watering; in wet springs a preventive fungicide at bud break helps where it recurs.

Leaf gall

Symptoms

Leaves, buds, or young shoots thicken into pale green, reddish, or whitish fleshy galls that later turn white with a powdery spore bloom before browning.

Treatment

Pick off and destroy galls before they turn white and shed spores. Improve air circulation and avoid overhead watering in spring. The damage is largely cosmetic and rarely needs fungicide.

Phytophthora Root Rot

Symptoms

Wilting despite moist soil, yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and dark, decayed roots and crown tissue. Vines may collapse during hot weather.

Treatment

Plant in well-draining soil and avoid waterlogging. Remove and destroy affected vines. Improve drainage with raised beds or amended soil and avoid overwatering.