Rosa wichurana

Memorial Rose

5a–9bHardiness zone
SummerFall
Peak bloom windowZone 6b · frost-offset weeks
Winter
Not in bloom
Spring
Peak bloom
Summer
Peak bloom
Fall
Not in bloom
Peak bloom
In bloom
Gallery
Rosa wichurana in bloom
Background

Rosa wichurana, the Memorial Rose, is a semi-evergreen trailing species from eastern Asia that has become a beloved parent of countless rambler and climbing rose hybrids. Left to its own devices it cascades along the ground, rooting as it goes and forming a dense, glossy-leaved groundcover. Given a structure to climb it will reach 15–20 feet, draping arbors and fences in late summer with loose clusters of single white flowers that carry a sweet apple fragrance.

It is one of the most disease-resistant of all roses - the same glossy, waxy foliage that catches the eye also sheds water and resists blackspot and mildew. In the Hudson Valley, where summer humidity is a constant challenge, this trait makes it unusually dependable. The small red hips that follow the flowers provide late-season color and winter food for birds, and the semi-evergreen foliage holds well into December most years.

Growing roses? Read the Rose Care Calendar - pruning by class, feeding, pests, climbers, and growing for hips, timed to your frost dates.
Care guide
SunFull sun; at least 6 hours for best bloom and to minimize disease.
WaterModerate; water deeply once a week when establishing, drought-tolerant once mature.
SoilWell-drained, moderately fertile soil; tolerates poor and sandy conditions.
Spacing6–10 feet; allow room to trail or provide a sturdy support for climbing.
HeightTrailing to 20 feet as a climber; 1–2 feet as a groundcover.
Zone5a – 9b
WinterHardy to Zone 5 - no special protection needed within its range. Mulch the crown lightly after the ground freezes where temperatures regularly drop below -10°F.
Frost hardy
Seasonal tasks
winter
overwinterWinter tidy and protect: After leaf-fall, shorten very long canes by a third so winter wind can't rock the roots loose, and mound compost or bark over the graft union of grafted roses in cold zones.
spring
cutThe main prune: Prune while the plant is still dormant but the buds are swelling - the old cottage rule is to cut when the forsythia blooms.
overwinterFirst feed and mulch: As the buds break, work a balanced rose feed into the soil around the base and lay a thick mulch of compost or well-rotted manure over the root zone (keep it off the stems).
watchInspect foliage for the first signs of aphids and sawfly larvae as new growth hardens off.
watchWatch for black spot and aphids: As the new growth softens, aphids cluster on the tips and the first spots of fungal disease appear on the lower leaves.
watchSpray roses preventively against yellow spot (rose rust) in preparation - a mix of copper fungicide, milk and water with a little dish soap, plus a garlic spray - before the spots can take hold
summer
watchWatch for black spot and aphids: As the new growth softens, aphids cluster on the tips and the first spots of fungal disease appear on the lower leaves.
watchCheck leaf undersides weekly for yellow spot (rose rust) - once roses get the spot there's no cure, so remove and destroy infected leaves immediately
watchTie in new canes as they extend; remove any suckers from the rootstock if grafted.
cutDeadhead through the flush: On repeat-flowering roses, cut spent blooms back to the first strong outward-facing leaf to push the next flush.
watchSecond feed after the first flush: Once the first big flush fades, feed again to fuel the repeat.
cutPrune after flowering - remove one or two of the oldest canes at the base and shorten side shoots to two or three buds.
watchLast feed of the year: Stop feeding six to eight weeks before your first frost.
watchStop deadheading - let the hips set: This is the single switch that turns spent flowers into fruit: leave the last blooms on the plant instead of cutting them.
fall
cutHarvest the hips: Pick after the first light frost, once the hips are fully coloured and just slightly soft - the frost turns their starch to sugar and takes the astringency off.
overwinterWinter tidy and protect: After leaf-fall, shorten very long canes by a third so winter wind can't rock the roots loose, and mound compost or bark over the graft union of grafted roses in cold zones.
Common problems

Powdery mildew

Symptoms

White or grey powdery coating on leaves - usually starting on older growth in humid conditions or when nights cool.

Treatment

Improve air circulation by thinning plants. Apply neem oil or potassium bicarbonate spray at first sign. Avoid overhead watering.

Yellow spot (rose rust)

Yellow spot (rose rust)

Symptoms

Bright yellow spots on the upper surface of leaves, with orange-yellow powdery pustules on the underside. Leaves may drop prematurely. Worst in cool, wet springs.

Treatment

Remove and bin all affected leaves - do not compost. Apply a systemic fungicide (myclobutanil or trifloxystrobin) at first sign and repeat every 10–14 days. Spray preventively from early spring before infection takes hold. Improve air circulation by pruning to an open centre.